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Mera Peak • Guided ascent of the Central Summit

Honku Valley approach • Amphu Laptsa Pass • Everest Region

Details

Length:

21 days in Nepal

Climbing Season:

Spring & Fall

Climbing Grade:

Cost

$5900

Climbing Grade: Advanced

This climb requires a high level of climbing proficiency on steep, exposed and technical terrain above 8000 meters. Class 5.6 rock climbing is required. Excellent physical conditioning is requisite for this expedition. Climbers must provide climbing resume including high altitude experience.

Climbing Grade: Advanced Intermediate

This climb requires a high level of climbing proficiency on steep, exposed and technical terrain at high altitude. Class 4 ice or 5.8 rock climbing is required. Excellent physical conditioning is requisite for this expedition. Climbers must provide climbing resume including high altitude experience.

Climbing Grade: Intermediate

This climb requires snow and ice climbing skills with proficiency on steep and icy terrain. Strong backpacking and excellent physical conditioning is requisite for this expedition. Prior climbing experience is required. High altitude experience is beneficial.

Climbing Grade: Advanced Beginner

Prior climbing experience is beneficial. Basic snow and ice climbing skills are introduced during the program. Above average physical conditioning is requisite for this climb. No high altitude experience is required.

Climbing Grade: Beginner

No prior climbing experience is required. Strong hiking skills and good physical conditioning are requisite.

Trekking Grade: Easy

No experience required.

Trekking Grade: Moderate

This trek requires 4-6 hours of hiking per day with a small pack. Elevation gains of 1000-2000 feet per day. Strong hiking skills and good physical conditioning are requisite.

Trekking Grade: Strenuous

This trek requires 6-8 hours of hiking per day with a small pack. Elevation gains of 2000-3000 feet per day. Strong hiking skills and great physical conditioning are requisite.

If you have further questions about our climbing or trekking grades; or about your qualifications for a particular expedition, trek, climb or course, please contact us.

Expedition Overview

Our climb of Mera Peak is a true mountaineering adventure. The peak is situated in the remote and unspoiled Honku Valley, known for its isolated glaciers and formidable high mountain passes. Our ascent takes us over 21,000 feet as we’re rewarded with spectacular scenery and ultimately one of the finest viewpoints in the Himalaya. Five of the six highest peaks on earth are present including Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. By its standard route from the Mera La, the ascent is technically straightforward; however, after a heavy snow fall or when the maze of crevasses are open, the way can be long and demanding. Above average physical conditioning and basic mountaineering skills are necessary.

Mera Peak Climb • 21 days

The expedition begins by flying into the heart of the Everest Region to the village of Lukla. Shortly our route takes us over a high mountain pass into the remote Honku Valley. It’s a great climb for those seeking to get away from the heavily traveled Khumbu Valley and chance to venture into a little visited region of Nepal; where the hillsides are still densely forested and self-sufficiency is essential. After climbing Mera Peak, we will follow the trail to Rato-odar, Panch Pokhari and cross the renowned Amphu Laptsa pass down to Chukkung and proceed along the classic Everest route to Tengboche Monastery. We arrive in Namche Bazaar the main trading center of the Sherpa people and return to Lukla along the banks of the Dudh Koshi passing small Sherpa farming villages.

Mera Peak & Islands Peak Climbs and Everest Base Camp • 24 days

This adventure combines a climb of Island & Mera Peak with a classic trek to Everest Base Camp. For most trekkers, the very thought of seeing Mount Everest from Kala Patar or standing at the base of the Khumbu Icefall is a dream come true. During the spring climbing season our trek stays one night at Everest Base Camp. Our expedition allows more time for acclimatization increasing your chance of completing the journey.

Itinerary

Flight Schedule: USA – Bangkok (BKK) – Kathmandu (KTM)
Expedition begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal


Mera Peak Climb

Day 1 • Arrive Kathmandu
Transfer airport to hotel. Our trek begins in the historic city of Kathmandu, known for its fascinating Nepalese culture and ancient temples. The Hotel Yak and Yeti is located near the popular Thamel district jammed with restaurants and shops selling Nepali handicrafts.

Day 2 • Kathmandu
After breakfast we begin our tour of Kathmandu’s world heritage sites. Among them we visit Durbar Square a complex of palaces, courtyards, Hindu temples and home of the Living Goddess, Kumari Ghar. Next we visit the always favorite Monkey Temple known as Swayambunath, situated on a small hill which offers panoramic views of the city and very curious monkeys. As time allows we’ll visit the temples of Pashupatinath and Boudhanath. In the late afternoon we will have a trek orientation and equipment check.

Day 3 • Lukla • 9,350ft
We transfer to Kathmandu’s domestic airport for our morning flight to Lukla. The views from the twin-engine Otter are nothing less than remarkable, providing amazing scenes of the terraced Nepalese hillside and Himalayan giants including the crown jewel Mount Everest towering in the distance. Once in Lukla we are welcomed with a cup of tea and meet our Sherpa staff. After landing we will spend the rest of the day exploring the village.

Day 4 • Chutanga • 11,000ft
Leaving after breakfast, we will take our time as we make our way through rhododendron forest crossing several cascading streams along our route. We progress towards the Zatrwa La which is part of an impressive rocky ridge of the Kalo Himal.

Day 5 • Tuli Kharka • 14,100ft
Today we ascend to a small notch through the Sebuk Danda Ridge where we continue along rocky terrain before we reach the Zatrwa La at 15,000 feet. The path drops down to the rugged, stream-filled, boulder strewn valley of Hinku Dranka.

Day 6 • Mosum Kharka • 12,100ft
We traverse the hillside crossing several spurs. Along the path we have good views of the South Face of Mera. We trek through beautiful forest full of rhododendron, birch and pine. We traverse along the hillside until we descend steeply through dense forest to the river.

Day 7 • Tagnag • 14,300ft
After breakfast we start out following the river. Ascending, we pass a few shepherd’s buildings, and we soon come to a small buddhist gompa with a buddha and several buddsatva and prayer flags. We continue up the valley with the sheer rock face of Kusum Kanguru at 20,896 feet towering above us.

Day 8 • Khare • 16,400ft
The trail steepens over moraine with spectacular scenery as we continue ascending and crossing streams. We come to the start of the glacier which leads to Mera La. We make camp at the edge of the glacier.

Day 9 • Mera La – Base Camp • 17,700ft
A short day as we climb onto the glacier and along a beautiful snow ridge that leads to Mera La and base camp.

Day 10 • High Camp • 19,000ft
We climb from Mera La and ascend snow slopes to a rock outcrop that marks the divide between the Mera and Naulekh glaciers. We establish high camp. We enjoy views of five of the six highest peaks on earth, Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu as well as other notable Himalayan peaks including Baruntse and Ama Dablam

Day 11 • Summit Day • Mera Peak • 21,246ft
Our summit days start early as we ascend the glacier roped up with ice axe and crampons. The dramatic snow ridge leads to the central summit, the highest point. We descend the route to Rato Odar known as red cave.

Day 12 • Contingency Day
An additional day is scheduled for weather, second summit attempt, rest or acclimatization as needed.

Day 13 • Baruntse Base Camp
We trek in the Honku Valley until three valleys meet Kusum, Thamserku and Thamarteka. We camp near the foot of Hunku Glacier.

Day 14 • Panch Pokhari
Our trek continues along five glaciated lakes known as holy lakes and a pilgrimage site. We camp at the foot of the Amphu Laptsa.

Day 15 • Amphu Laptsa • 18,600ft
We rise early to cross the Amphu Laptsa. This is a technical pass which requires fixed ropes, crampons and ice axe. We have stunning views of the Lhotse south wall, Mera Peak and Island Peak. After crossing the pass we will continue to the village of Chukkung.

Day 16 • Tengboche Monastery • 12,887ft
After breakfast we arrive in Dingboche, from here the views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and the north face of Ama Dablam are superb. We trek downhill to Pangboche traditionally the last year round settlement in the Khumbu Valley. The route continues to drop to Deboche a quite village situated among conifer and rhododendron forest. Once in Tengboche we spend the afternoon touring the historic monastery considered the spiritual heart of the Khumbu region and residence of the famous Rinpoche revered by Buddhist’s.

Day 17 • Namche Bazaar • 11,300ft
We arrive in Namche Bazaar the main trading center of the Sherpa people and gateway to the Khumbu Valley. You can explore the lively village of Namche with its interesting trekking shops and street merchants selling an assortment of Tibetan wares. As we walk the stone paved streets one can’t resist stopping by the local bakery for a cup of coffee and slice of pie. On Saturday mornings, a local market is held in the center of the village which allows for interesting people watching.

Day 18 • Lukla
The trek continues along the banks of the Dudh Koshi crossing the “Milky River“ many times as we pass small Sherpa farming villages laden with prayer flags and carved prayer stones known as “Mani Stones“.

Day 19 • Kathmandu
After saying farewell to our Sherpa staff we depart to Kathmandu on an early morning flight. We spend the afternoon resting and exploring the Thamel District.

Day 20 • Kathmandu • Contingency Day
An additional day is scheduled in the event of flight delays departing Lukla and for exploring Kathmandu. The day remains flexible depending on the desires of the group. There are many opportunities to tour Kathmandu’s world heritage sites. Pashupatinath Temple one of the most famous Hindu temples in Nepal, the Buddhist temples of Boudhanath and the temples in the city of Patan south of Kathmandu are recommended. Some in the group may simply want to relax and shop in Thamel.

Day 21 • Depart
Transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home.


Itinerary Notes: Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the particular needs of the group. Please request a detailed itinerary for a list of scheduled and non-scheduled meals.

Details

Land Cost

21-day Mera Peak Climb: $5900

Island Peak Climb & Everest Base Camp extension: $1400

Single Supplement: $300


Deposit and Payments
$700.00 deposit includes reservation fee, due with application.
Balance due 90 days prior to departure


Services included
Sagamartha NP entrance fee
Trekking peak climbing permit and fees
Domestic airfare – Kathmandu – Lukla
All scheduled land transportation in Nepal
3 nights hotel accommodations in Thamel, Kathmandu
Tea House Lodge and tented accommodations
Scheduled meals in Kathmandu and during the expedition
Professional guide
Porter service
All group equipment for the expedition (including tents, stoves, group climbing gear, fixed ropes)


Services not included
International airfare and meals during travel – USA – Kathmandu
Non-scheduled meals
Snack food during the trek
Personal gear
Trip cancellation insurance
Medical and evacuation coverage
Staff gratuities

Gear List

Trekking Peaks • Nepal

Head and Face:
• Warm Synthetic/ Wool hat: One that covers the ears.
• Heavyweight Balaclava
• Sun Hat or Baseball cap
• Sunglasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Bring a high quality pair
designed for mountain use. Attachable side shields are necessary, glacier glasses.
• Sunscreen: SPF 40 or more.
• Lip Balm: SPF 20 or more.
• Bandanas: Tied around neck they give good sun protection.
• Climbing Headlamp: Bring plenty of batteries.

Upper Body:
• Upper Body Layers: We recommend you have three warm layers for the upper body.
Items must be made of synthetic or pile. Make sure all layers fit comfortably
over each other and supply good insulation. A good combination is a long
underwear top, a sweater, and a pile jacket. Cotton items do not provide
adequate insulation and are completely useless when damp.
• Synthetic Fleece Jacket and/or Pullover: Medium weight
• Shirts: Two synthetic shirts are best for trekking. Two cotton shirts for camp and lodges.
One synthetic long sleeve shirts for climbing.
• Hard Shell Jacket w/ hood: Snow and high wind can be common. GORE-TEX© or
waterproof nylon that has been “seam sealed”.
• Down Jacket with insulated hood: 700+ fill down
• Wind Shirt: A nylon wind shell (not waterproof)

Handwear:
• Heavyweight Synthetic gloves: One pair (WINDSTOPPER© is recommended)
• Expedition Gloves w/ wrist straps: One pair

Lower Body:
• Quick Dry Hiking Shorts: One pair. Good for hiking at lower elevations in the mountains.
• Long Underwear Bottoms: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton
• Pile/Fleece Pants: One pair that fit loosely and comfortable. These are
essential to be worn over the long underwear bottoms. (full side zips)
• Hard Shell Pants: Bring a good pair of rain/wind pants of GORE-TEX© or waterproof
nylon that has been “seam sealed”. (full side zips)
• Trekking/Climbing Pants: Synthetic, comfortable to climb in and provide good
warmth on cool misty days, dry fast and prevent sunburn. Schoeller© fabric is recommended.
• Gaiters: One pair of high gaiters to keep dirt and snow out of boots.
• Undergarments: Enough for the duration of the program.

Footwear:
• Double Plastic Climbing Boots w/ high altitude liners
• Lightweight Socks: Two pair of synthetic liner socks to wear under heavy socks.
• Trekking Socks: Three pair synthetic medium weight
• Heavyweight Socks: One pair of synthetic socks to wear for warmth with climbing boots.
• Hiking Boots or Trekking Shoes: One pair medium weight hiking boots/shoes large enough
to be comfortable with one liner sock and one heavy synthetic sock.
• Sport Sandals: These are to wear in camp or lodges.

Sleeping:
• Sleeping Bag: Mountain temperatures can get below zero degrees Fahrenheit
so bring a warm bag (rated to 0 to -10 degrees Fahrenheit).
• Sleeping Pad: One closed-cell foam pad or an inflatable THERMA-REST© pad.

Packing and Backpack:
• Backpack: One lightweight medium size (3500 cubic inches) comfortable pack with some
support, adequate to carry personal gear. The pack should fit properly and have a
good waist belt. Carry gear between 15 and 30 pounds.
• Trekking Backpack: optional for trek.
• Duffle/zip Bag: One large size, transporting gear via yaks or porters.
• Duffle/zip Bag: One medium size, store non-mountain gear during the expedition.
• Travel locks, nametags, and contact information written directly on the duffels.
• Bags: (2) large plastic bags (2) large Ziploc bags (2) stuff sacks
• Passport with three extra photos (photo for the Nepal Entry Visa)

Climbing Gear:
• Trekking poles: adjustable and collapsible
• Ice axe w/Leash: 70cm recommended
• Crampons
• Climbing Helmet, optional
• Alpine Climbing Harness w/ adjustable leg loops
• Carabiners Non-locking: Two lightweight (BD Hotwire)
• Carabiners Locking: Two large pear-shaped, screw gate
• Ascender: Left or right handed, optional
• Prussik Cord: 20 feet, 6mm perlon
• Climbing Slings: Two slings
• Rappel/Delay device: BD ATC recommended

Drinking:
• Water Bottle: Two, one liter wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©
• Water Treatment: We recommend you bring two bottles of “Potable Aqua” or a “Polar Pure”,
crystal iodine in a bottle, to treat drinking water.
• Water Flavoring: Lemonade, Tang, Gatoraid, etc.

Personal Health and First Aid
• Small personal first-aid kit and medications
• Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and Lexan spoon
• Personal Items

Gear: A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.

Travel

International Programs • Nepal

Program start time & location: begins and ends in Kathmandu

Visa/Entry Information: A passport and visa are required. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or purchase 15 day multiple-entry visa ($25), 30 day multiple-entry visa ($40), or 90 day multiple-entry visa ($100) upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu.

Health & Immunizations: Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal.

Flight Travel Information: USA – Bangkok (BKK) – Kathmandu (KTM)

International Departures: Our itineraries reflect the date and time you’ll need to arrive in country for a particular program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the countries, destination city. When booking your flight you’ll need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It’s easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you’ll need to arrive.

Meals and Food: All meals are provided as per meal schedule. (see itinerary for meal schedule)

Gear: A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.

Frequently Asked Questions

Even the most experienced climbers have questions and if this is your first time on an Expedition, Trek or Northwest Climb you’re sure to have them. We provide information about such things as travel dates, itineraries and required equipment throughout our website. However, if you can’t find the answers you seek anywhere else, we try to provide them here!

Travel & Insurance

When do I need to arrive and depart?

International Departures: Our itineraries reflect the date and time you’ll need to arrive in country for a particular program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the countries, destination city. When booking your flight you’ll need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It’s easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you’ll need to arrive.

Domestic Departures: Regarding Northwest programs our itineraries reflect the date and time the program begins at a particular start location (North Cascades NP, Olympic NP, etc.). When flying to Washington State you’ll likely need to arrive the day before the climb begins in order to meet the group at the program start location. In regards to your departure flight, our return time to the program start location is often unpredictable. We suggest a hotel reservation for the night of the last day and plan to return home the day after the end of the program.

What if I want to arrive early or depart later than the program? Mountain Gurus can assist in arranging accommodations before or after the program. Our Operations Director can recommend things to do if you desire.

Will a Mountain Gurus agent greet me at the airport? For International programs depending on your arrival time, we coordinate ground transportation. We either greet you at the airport or arrange transportation to your hotel. In most cases the program formally begins the morning after arrival day.

Do you recommend trip cancellation insurance? Mountain Gurus highly recommends purchasing of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delays, medical expenses and emergency assistance.

Do I need any other insurance? Make sure you provide yourself adequate traveler’s medical and evacuation insurance for coverage should you have a problem during the trip.

Should I have concerns when traveling internationally? We recommend registering with the United States Department of State when traveling anywhere internationally. Registration is voluntary and is your sole responsibility. Also, the United States Department of State maintains a travel Warning/Alerts list for most countries around the world. www.travel.state.gov

Experience and Fitness

What are climbing and trekking grades? Mountain Gurus provides climbing and trekking grades to help our client choose which programs are best suited for their experience level, knowledge of climbing and overall physical conditioning. Mountain travel can be extremely challenging yet profoundly rewarding. We offer programs of various skill levels and difficulty. Regardless which program you choose we expect our clients to be physically and mentally prepared for the demands of the journey.

Can anyone participate on your MG programs? We feel that anyone in reasonably good physical fitness should be able to join us on many of our programs. Mountain Gurus guides will introduce basic trekking and climbing skills needed during the course of the program. Remember your ability to participate in the program is largely dependent upon your overall health and fitness. An expedition, trek or climb shouldn’t be taken lightly and we encourage you to prepare for it by physically conditioning yourself for the strenuous aspects of the program. We strongly advise anyone who is considering a climb with Mountain Gurus, who may have a medical condition or medical history that may affect their performance, first consult with their physician. If you have further questions or concerns please contact us and our Operations Director can discuss which program is best suited for you.

Domestic & International Programs

How can I find out about necessary visas or entry requirements for the country I am visiting? Mountain Gurus will send you all necessary visa information contained within our pre-departure package. In most case American citizens can obtain a visa upon arrival. It is your responsibility to send in all pre-required visa applications and associated fees. In addition most countries maintain websites that provide all necessary information and application forms.

How can I find about necessary immunizations for the area where I am traveling? As part of your itinerary, we’ll provide you with current recommended/required immunizations for the country where you are traveling. You can always consult the Center for Disease Control at www.cdc.gov

Can I hire an additional porter? On International programs Mountain Gurus can arrange hire of a personal porter if desired for an additional cost. Please notify MG in advance if you’re considering a personal porter.

Can additional gear or clothing be stored during the program duration? In most cases additional items can be stored at the hotel or with our ground operator.

What type of accommodations can I expect?

Hotels: During our stay in international destination cities you can expect to stay in high quality hotels. When available we opt to stay in smaller boutique style hotels that provide a friendly atmosphere and high quality experience.

Camping or Lodges: When camping we provide our clients with high quality mountaineering tents. Depending on the expedition or climb clients participate in setting up tents and help in establishing camp as well as participate in cooking. On Treks and Tours, Mountain Gurus provides our clients with a fully supported experience, your tent will be set up and waiting when you arrive in camp and you’ll be greeted with hot water and a cup of tea. Destinations like Nepal we often opt to stay in high quality lodges (also known as Tea Houses) as an alternative to camping. Due to our local knowledge we choose from the finest lodges available which provide great food and a friendly warm environment.

Do you provide single accommodations? International programs that include hotels, a single room supplement is available for an additional cost if desired. For those traveling alone who do not wish to pay an additional cost for a single room, we will pair you in a room with another same-sex team member. In the event another team member of the same sex is not available for room pairings, you will be assigned a single room. During Northwest climbs single tent accommodations are not available.

How heavy a pack do I need to carry?

On Northwest programs you will be required to carry a portion of the group gear and food, in addition to your personal gear. This should be taken into consideration when deciding what you should bring. Be prepared to carry between 40-65 lbs. depending on the length of the program and group size.

For International programs pack weight varies greatly depending on the type of program. On our fully supported Treks and Tours you will only be expected to carry a small to medium sized day pack with each trekking day’s necessary clothing and essentials. 15-30 lbs. Expeditions will be required to carry a portion of the group gear and food in addition to your personal gear. 40-65 lbs. On fully supported Expeditions we utilize high altitude climbing porters which greatly minimizes the need to carry group gear. 35-50 lbs.

Private and Custom Programs

I have a group of family/friends/colleagues and we have specific dates we would like to climb. Can you customize a program for us? All of our programs can be run on a private basis. The beauty of a private program is you climb what you want, with who you want, when you want. We’ll take care of the entire program. We are also able to provide you with a custom itinerary depending on your interests. We may require a $100 non-refundable deposit for custom program planning which will be applied towards your program cost at the time of reservation.

Equipment

Does Mountain Gurus rent equipment? We do provide limited rental gear on our Northwest programs. All rental gear is limited and needs to be reserved and paid in advance. See Northwest Climbs and Courses for details. Currently we do not rent any equipment for international programs. Also, many local climbing and outdoors stores rent gear for reasonable rates.

Rental items include: Ice Axe, Crampons, Harness, Helmet

Where should I buy equipment? We can help you find a local climbing and outdoor shop where you can purchase the equipment you’ll need.

General

Is it customary to tip your support staff or mountain guide? On international programs where we utilize support staff (porters, cooks, kitchen staff, etc.); it is Mountain Gurus practice to take a group tip and divide it among the support staff. Tipping of Mountain Guides for a job well done is always appreciated.

How can my family get in contact with me when I’m on a on a Mountain Gurus program? After your application and deposit are accepted; you will be provided with a detailed itinerary which will include hotel and ground outfitter contact information for your program. Due to the nature of the wilderness areas we travel it is likely you will be out of contact during the duration of the program. Telephone and internet access is available in some destinations at you own expense.

What if my spouse, family or friends don’t climb; can they still join me on safari? We would be delighted to make arrangements for non-trekking family and friends to join you after the climb. We suggest you extend your safari a few days to take advantage of Tanzania’s remarkable wildlife parks and diverse landscape.

Can my son or daughter join me on the program? What’s the minimum age requirement? Possibly, we would prefer to talk with you about the program you’re interested in and see if it’s an appropriate choice for someone under the age of 18. We accept participants 16 years or older on our regularly scheduled trips, accompanied by a legal guardian.