April 1 – May 1, 2020
30 days in Nepal
Our Everest Camp II team is now open to qualified climbers. Mountain Gurus South side expedition is led by a team of highly experienced IFMGA certified Sherpa guides. Please contact us directly to learn more about our 30-day full service climb.
Mount Everest, remains thee premier guided climbing challenge of our time. No place on earth inspires mountaineers like the sheer scale and height of the Himalaya. For climbers interested in ascending Mount Everest but are not able to join our summit climb, Mountain Gurus presents the opportunity to climb through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 2, or Camp 3 high on the Lhoste Face. These exciting options allow you to gain high altitude experience while challenging yourself in one of the most remarkable places on earth. Mount Everest was first summited by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmond Hillary in 1953 from the South Side. Mount Everest while not posing substantial technical climbing difficulty, does require a high level of climbing proficiency on steep and exposed terrain at high altitude.
Mountain Gurus proudly offers a fully supported Everest climb. Our team of experienced Sherpa guides handle all the logistics for our expeditions. As IFMGA/UIAGM trained Sherpa guides they take great pride in managing our ground operations, working with our skilled team of climbing Sherpas and expedition staff to ensure safety and success on the mountain. Each of our mountain guides have extensive experience on Mount Everest with multiple summit climbs.
Our Khumbu Icefall expedition begins in Kathmandu’s bustling tourist district of Thamel. The team departs by Twin Otter plane to Lukla and treks along the Dudh Koshi River before arriving in the legendary Sherpa village of Namche Bazaar. The next day offers amazing Himalayan views as we make a long descending traverse across the Imja River and then climbs to Tengboche Monastery. We now enter the upper Khumbu Valley passing the well-established trekking outposts of Dingboche, Lobuche and Gorak Shep before reaching Everest Base Camp at 17,700 feet. The climb to Camp 2 and Camp 3 ascends through the Khumbu Icefall with its seracs and crevasses, using fixed ropes and ladders prepared by our Sherpa climbing team. The classic South Side route climbs to Camp 2 via the Western CWM, then to Camp 3 high on the Lhotse Face.
Our Everest Camp II itinerary remains flexible. We seek to gain adequate acclimatization managing our exposure within the Khumbu icefall. We have the option of climbing Lobuche Peak prior to our climbing rotations. The team also has the option of utilizing helicopter service during the trekking phase of the trip.
Day 1-12 • KTM to Everest Base Camp
Day 13-16 • Everest Base Camp • 17,600 ft
Day 17 • Khumbu Icefall • 19,000 ft
Day 18 • Everest Base Camp
Day 19-20 • Khumbu Icefall to Camp I • 19,500 ft
Day 21 • Western Cwm to Camp II • 21,000 ft
Day 22 • Return to Everest Base Camp
Day 23-24 • Contingency Days
Day 25-30 • Pheriche – Kathmandu
“I Our month on Everest is an experience I’ll remember forever. In the months leading up to the trip, my conversations with Dennis were informative and exciting, and I was continuously impressed with how knowledgeable, experienced, and thorough his planning was. He anticipated exactly what we’d need on the trip; and was able to custom make our itinerary to fit our unique requests. His hard work paid off and our trek went off without a hitch. When you’re on the mountain and things are getting tough, you appreciate the little details – Dennis had taken care of all of them and it made our outstanding experience what it was!” Spring 2011 Nina G
Expedition begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal
Please refer to our Everest Base Camp trek itinerary for the approach to EBC.
We continue our trek to Everest base camp, located at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. We trek across the glacier passing yak trains carrying supplies for Everest climbing expeditions. During the spring climbing season Everest base camp is crammed with activity as a small village of expedition tents arises at the edge Khumbu Icefall. (B, L, D)
We settle into Everest Base Camp and spend the next few days acclimatizing, organizing gear and getting acquainted with expedition life. Our team will participate in the expedition Puja ceremony important to our Sherpa staff before beginning our climbing rotations. The next day we review climbing skills which relate to ascending and descending the Khumbu Icefall. We usually do an additional hike to Pumori Camp 1 for acclimatization before heading into the icefall. (B, L, D)
Early morning we make an acclimatization ascent into the Khumbu Icefall. The team climbs our way through the icefall with its seracs and crevasses while using fixed ropes and ladders. After climbing half way through the Icefall, we descend to basecamp. (B, L, D)
Rest and acclimatization day. (B, L, D)
Early morning we return to the Khumbu Icefall climbing our way to Camp 1. We enter the remote valley known as the Western CWM. (B, L, D)
The next morning we climb to Camp 2. Views of the massive Southwest Face of Everest and Lhotse are remarkable. (B, L, D)
Today we descend from Camp 2 to Base Camp. We make our final decent through the Khumbu Icefall. (B, L, D)
These extra days will be reserved as an additional rest or weather days. This could also be used for an additional ascent of Lobuche Peak prior to climbing to Camp 2. (B, L, D)
Over the next days we descend to Pheriche, Namche and Lukla. Once back in Kathmandu we transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home.
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
$10,000 Everest Camp II
$13,000 Everest Camp III
$2,000.00 deposit includes reservation fee, due with application.
Balance due 90 days prior to departure
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.
Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boot and Crampon guide for more information.
Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal
Passport must have six months or more validity remaining at the time of entry. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. 30 day multiple-entry visa ($40), or 90 day multiple-entry visa ($100)
Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal
Flight Travel Information:
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Nepal
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the countries destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.
Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.
Climbing Grade: Intermediate
Island Peak is usually climbed after an acclimatization trek to Everest Base Camp. This is highly recommended as altitude can be a determining factor on success on this climb. We recommend climbers to have basic snow and climbing skills before attempting this peak. Good physical conditioning is required, with pack weights ranging between 30-40 lbs. to high camp.
Prior to the expedition we recommend taking at minimum a mountaineering course and spending time at altitude.
Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting Island Peak.
The trek requires 6-8 hours of hiking per day with a 20 lbs. pack. The climbing days require 5-8 hours of climbing with a 30+ lbs. packs at high altitude. Elevation gains of 2000-3000+ feet per day. Strong hiking skills and excellent physical conditioning are required.
Our Nepal climbs are led by a Nepalese (Sherpa) mountain guides or an American mountain guide with extensive experience leading our climbing teams. They will be accompanied by assistant Sherpa guides and porters. Many of these guides are native to the Khumbu (Everest) region of Nepal.
The only period to climb to Camp II is during the pre-monsoon Spring climbing season when expeditions are attempting Mount Everest, from April to May.
During the trek you will only carry the gear you’ll use for each day. Porters will carry all your extra clothing items and overnight gear. At no point will you carry camping gear or equipment for overnight. Daypacks should not weigh more than 15-20 lbs. for your comfort.
Beyond base camp all climbers are required to carry 35+ lbs. packs as we establish a series of camps higher on the mountain. Being in top physical and mental condition is key to succeeding on this climb.
In Kathmandu we stay at clean and comfortable hotels, during the trek we utilize mountain lodges owned and operated by the local people. During the climbing portions of the trip and in remote areas with overnight in mountain tents.