PRICE

$1600 (3-day climb extension)
See EBC trek pricing

SCHEDULE

Spring
March 18 – April 7, 2019
April 8 – April 28, 2019
April 29 – May 19, 2019 

Fall
October 7 – October 27, 2019
October 21 – November 10, 2019

DETAILS

21 days in Nepal
Grade: Beginner

 
 
 
 
 

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OVERVIEW

Mountain Gurus climb of Island Peak provides an excellent introduction into the world of Himalayan mountaineering. The final climb to the summit is steep and challenging and offers a truly spectacular expedition experience. Known by locals as “Imja Tse“ this trekking peak stands at the head of the Imja Khola Valley, a tributary of the mighty Khumbu Valley within the Everest Region.

Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Climb • 21 Days

This adventure combines a climb of Island Peak with a classic trek to Everest Base Camp. For most trekkers, the very thought of seeing Mount Everest from Kala Pattar or standing at the base of the Khumbu Icefall is a dream come true. Our journey begins in the historic city of Kathmandu, known for its fascinating Nepalese culture and ancient temples. We soon fly to Lukla and trek along the Dudh Koshi River until arriving in legendary village of Namche Bazaar, the main trading center of the Sherpa people and gateway to the Khumbu Valley. Over the next few days we visit the Tengboche monastery and we’re continually rewarded with amazing views of the north face of Ama Dablam and upper Khumbu Valley.

After reaching Everest Base Camp we turn our attention to Island Peak and approach the mountain via the Chhukung Valley. Basecamp is situated on the edge of a glacial moraine amidst an icy world of massive rock walls and hanging glaciers. After crossing the glacier, we climb a steep headwall secured by fixed rope that leads to the snowy exposed south ridge and on to the summit. The views of the surrounding 8000 meter giants Lhotse and Makalu are nothing less than astonishing.

Island Peak is a great first Himalayan objective for new or veteran climbers seeking to expand their mountaineering or high altitude experience. Our expedition allows more time for acclimatization increasing your chance of completing the journey. During the spring climbing season our trek stays one night at Everest Base Camp.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 1-11 • Kathmandu – Dingboche
Day 13 • Island Peak Base Camp • 16,300 ft
Day 14 • Island Peak High Camp • 18,000 ft
Day 15 • Summit Day • Imja Tse • 20,305 ft
Day 16 – 21 • Chhukung – Kathmandu

ITINERARY

Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak

Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal

Day 1-11 • Kathmandu – Gorak Shep • 16,942 ft

Please refer to our Everest Base Camp Trek itinerary for the approach to EBC and Island Peak.

Day 12 • Dingboche • 14,250 ft

We head down the glacier and enter the lush and beautiful Khumbu Valley, surrounded by spectacular snow-capped peaks. From here the views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and the north face of Ama Dablam are superb.

Accommodations: Lodge in Dingboche
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 13 • Island Peak Base Camp • 16,300 ft

After breakfast we continue up the valley to Island Peak base camp. Basecamp is situated on the edge of a glacial moraine amidst an icy world of massive rock walls and hanging glaciers.

Accommodations: Tented Camp at Island Peak Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 14 • Island Peak High Camp • 18,000 ft

Today we climb to high camp. We prepare for our summit day. We also have the option of climbing Island Peak from basecamp and using the day to rest up and refresh climbing skills

Accommodations: Tented Camp at Island Peak High Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 15 • Summit Day • Imja Tse • 20,305 ft

The day starts early. Once out of camp we climb rocky open slopes to a flat area occasionally used as an advanced base camp. We continue up a rock gully before traversing right and climbing a series of rolling benches. The route crosses a technically easy but exposed ridge before coming to the base of the glacier. Here we rope up and continue climbing the glacier until we reach the base of a steep snow and ice headwall. The headwall secured by fixed rope leads to the snowy exposed south ridge and on to the summit. The views of the surrounding 8000 meter giants Lhotse (27,890ft) and Makalu (27,805ft) are nothing less than astonishing. Ama Dablam (22,493ft) and Baruntse (25,328ft) as well as a sea of Himalayan peaks lay in the distance. We descend the route to Chhukung.

Accommodations: Lodge in Chhukung
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 16 – 20 • Chhukung – Kathmandu

Over the next five days we descend to Lukla and return to Kathmandu.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 21 • Depart Kathmandu

Transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home.

Meals Included: Breakfast (B)

Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

DETAILS

Price

$1600 (3-day climb extension)
See EBC trek pricing

Deposit and Payments

$700.00 deposit includes reservation fee, due with application
Balance due 90 days prior to departure

Price Includes

  • Park fees and climbing permit
  • Lodges during the trek
  • Tented accommodations
  • Scheduled meals during the expedition
  • Professional mountain guide
  • Scheduled porter service based on itinerary
  • Baggage transport (limited to 30kg – 66lbs)
  • All group equipment for the expedition (including tents, stoves, group climbing gear, fixed ropes, emergency oxygen)

Price Does Not Include

  • International airfare and meals during travel
  • Visa fees
  • Non-scheduled airport transfers
  • Non-scheduled meals
  • Personal gear
  • Non-scheduled porter service
  • Trip cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
  • Single room supplement (hotels only)
  • Medical and evacuation coverage
  • Helicopter flights due to delays
  • Early departure fees
  • Excess baggage fees
  • Tips and gratuities

GEAR LIST

A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.

Head and Face

  • Warm Hat: Wool/ synthetic, one that covers the ears.
  • Buff or Neck Gaitor
  • Heavyweight Balaclava
  • Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
  • Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields.
  • Goggles: Dark lenses to help with snow and wind.
  • Sunscreen: SPF 30+
  • Lip Balm: SPF 30+
  • Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.

Upper Body

  • Baselayer Tops: One synthetic long-sleeve shirt.
  • Mid-layer Top: This is a synthetic or fleece top.
  • Softshell Jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Hardshell Jacket: GORE-TEX© or a fully waterproof shell. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Insulated Jacket: Heavyweight 700+ fill down.

Handwear

  • Lightweight Gloves: One pair (WINDSTOPPER© is recommended)
  • Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip.
  • Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer.
  • Handwarmers: 1 set

Lower Body

  • Baselayer Bottom: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton
  • Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated
  • Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your Hardshell pants without removing your boots.
  • Insulated Pants: One pair of synthetic insulated pants with full side zips.
  • Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.

Footwear

  • Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible. Heavy weight synthetic/ hybrid mountaineering boots.
  • Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
  • Heavyweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.

Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boot and Crampon guide for more information.

Sleeping

  • Sleeping Bag: Bring a warm bag (rated to 0ᵒ fahrenheit).
  • Sleeping Pads: A full-length closed-cell foam pad and inflatable pad.

Packing and Backpack

  • Backpack: One 70L pack with good support, adequate to carry personal, and group gear. The pack should fit properly, have a good waist belt, and be able to carry gear between 30-40 lbs.
  • Duffle/zip Bag: one large size, transporting gear to basecamp via mules.
  • Liner Bags: 2 Large plastic contractor bags.

Climbing Gear

  • Ice axe: 55-65cm mountaineering axe.
  • Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
  • Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
  • Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops.
  • Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
  • Locking Carabiners: (4) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners.
  • Non-locking Carabiners: (2) Wire gate non-locking carabiners.
  • Ascender: Left or right handed
  • Rappel/Delay device: Figure 8 recommended
  • Prussik Cord: 40 feet, 6mm perlon
  • Nylon Sling: (2) 60cm nylon slings

Hydration

  • Water Bottle: Two, 1L wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©

Personal Health and First Aid

  • Snacks and drinks
  • Small personal first-aid kit and medications
  • Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
  • Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
  • Earplugs

TRAVEL & FITNESS

Travel

Program Location:
Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal

Visa/Entry Information:
Passport must have six months or more validity remaining at the time of entry. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. 30 day multiple-entry visa ($40), or 90 day multiple-entry visa ($100)

Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal

Flight Travel Information:
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Nepal

International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the countries destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.

Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.

Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.

Island Peak Fitness & Training

Climbing Grade: Beginner

Island Peak is usually climbed after an acclimatization trek to Everest Base Camp. This is highly recommended as altitude can be a determining factor on success on this climb. We recommend climbers to have basic snow and climbing skills before attempting this peak. Good physical conditioning is required, with pack weights ranging between 30-40 lbs. to high camp.

Prior to the expedition we recommend taking at minimum a mountaineering course and spending time at altitude.

Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting Island Peak.

  • Northwest Climb (Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Shuksan)
  • Mount Elbrus
  • Mexican Volcanoes, Ecuador Volcanoes, Peaks of Bolivia

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the physical requirements needed for this trek and climb?

The trek requires 6-8 hours of hiking per day with a 20 lbs. pack. The climb requires 10-14 hours of climbing with a 25 lbs. pack. Elevation gains of 3000-4000+ feet per day. Strong hiking skills and excellent physical conditioning are required.

Who will be guiding?

Our Nepal climbs are led by a Nepalese (Sherpa) mountain guides or an American mountain guide with extensive experience leading our climbing teams. They will be accompanied by assistant Sherpa guides and porters. Many of these guides are native to the Khumbu (Everest) region of Nepal.

What are the Nepal climbing seasons?

The best time to trek is in the pre-monsoon Spring season, March-April-May and the post-monsoon Fall season, October-November. Nepal experiences the monsoon (heavy rains and snow) from June to September. Winter is very cold in the high mountains (December-February).

How much will my pack weigh?

During the trek you will only carry the gear you’ll use for each day. Porters will carry all your extra clothing items and overnight gear. At no point will you carry camping gear or equipment for overnight. Daypacks should not weigh more than 15-20 lbs. for your comfort. On summit day we will be breathing heavy, moving slowly, and carrying our 25 lbs. summit packs. Being in top physical and mental condition is key to succeeding on this climb.

Where will we be staying?

In Kathmandu we stay at clean and comfortable hotels, during the trek we utilize mountain lodges owned and operated by the local people. During the climbing portions of the trip and in remote areas with overnight in mountain tents.