PRICE

$15,000

SCHEDULE

August 28 – October 25, 2018

DETAILS

59 days in Nepal
Grade: Advanced

 
 
 

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OVERVIEW

Manaslu (8163m), a name derived from the Sanskrit word “manasa”, meaning “Mountain of the Spirit”, is the eighth highest peak in the world. Manaslu is a part of Gorkha massif located some 40 miles east of Mt. Annapurna. Manaslu’s long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions to the summit. The climb to the top of Manaslu poses moderate technical difficulty, however the actual difficulty lies in the remoteness of the peak. After an arduous trek to the Base Camp, climbers must take a circuitous route up the mountain.

Manaslu • Northeast Ridge Expedition • 59 Days

We will follow the standard route to the summit, utilizing several camps along the way. After leaving our high camp we will ascend moderate slopes to gain several plateaus on the summit ridge. The route then passes under a sub-summit with an exposed technical traverse utilizing fixed ropes. From the top we will enjoy amazing views of the surrounding 8000m peaks before making our way back to high camp.

What experience do I need to climb Manaslu?

Climbing Manaslu is not an easy endeavor. This is an expedition that requires nearly two months in Nepal, as well as prior training. It takes more than a few months to develop the climbing experience and skills needed to participant in this adventure. Summiting an 8000 meter peak can be a culmination of years of preparation and training, both mental and physical.

Before you consider participating in a Manaslu summit expedition, you should have four to five significant climbing expeditions under your belt. These may include Denali, Aconcagua, Mount Vinson, or other Himalayan peaks such as Cho Oyu, Island Peak. Only seasoned climbers will be accepted for the expedition group so if you are just starting out, please consider taking one of our mountaineering courses or Seven Summits climbs.

Peak physical conditioning with advanced technical skills are required to be eligible for this climb. A brief roster of the skills you must have include: extensive high altitude climbing experience, advanced mountaineering and technical skills, crampon techniques, glacier travel, fixed line use, ice axe skills, experience with ice axe self-arrest, crevasse rescue, rope knowledge including knots and anchors, and extreme weather camping. Read our The Four-Legged Stool blog post for a better understanding of what skills are required to climb an 8ooo meter peak.

If you aspire to climb Manaslu and are new to climbing, check out our Northwest climbs and courses to get you started developing the basics. From there, we can recommend incrementally challenging expeditions to set you on a road toward developing the skills you will need to summit an 8000 meter peak such as Everest, Manaslu or Cho Oyu.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 1 • Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 • Kathmandu
Day 3 • Arughat – Soti Khola
Day 4 • Soti Khola – Machha Khola
Day 5 • Machha Khola – Jagat
Day 6 • Jagat – Nagyang Besi
Day 7 • Nagyang Besi – Namrung
Day 8 • Namrung – Lho Gaun
Day 9 • Lho Gaun – Sama Gaun
Day 10 • Sama Gaun – Basecamp • 15,750 ft
Day 11-49 • Climb of Manaslu
– Camp I • 19,000 ft
– Camp II • 21,000 ft
– Camp III • 22,300 ft
– Camp IV • 24,442 ft
Day 50 • Summit Day • Manaslu • 26,758 ft
Day 51 • Basecamp – Samdo
Day 52 • Samdo – Dharmasala
Day 53 • Dharmasala – Bhimtang
Day 54 • Bhimtang – Goa
Day 55 • Goa – Dharapani
Day 56 • Dharapani – Besisahar
Day 57 • Besisahar – Kathmandu
Day 58 • Kathmandu
Day 59 • Depart

ITINERARY

Manaslu Expedition

Our Manaslu itinerary remains flexible. We seek to gain adequate acclimatization managing our exposure at higher elevations.

Day 1 • Arrive Kathmandu

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, Nepal (KTM). Our climb begins in the historic city of Kathmandu, known for its fascinating Nepalese culture and ancient temples. The hotel is in the popular Thamel district jammed with restaurants and shops selling Nepali handicrafts.

Day 2 • Kathmandu

We have an expedition orientation and equipment check. As we have time we will visit local historical sites in Kathmandu.

Day 3 • Arughat – Soti Khola • 1,950 ft

The journey to Arughat Bazaar in Gorkha district will take about 7 hours. We will travel via Prithivi Highway towards Arughat. This village, located next to the Budhi Gandhi River, has a small market full of shops and lodges. We will transfer to a jeep on our final push to Soti Khola.

Day 4 • Soti Khola – Machha Khola • 4,265 ft

From Soti Khola, we trek through beautiful Gurung and Magar villages, enjoying the views of Shringri Himal. This valley is filled with traditional rice paddies, as well as fields of maize and millet. After a day’s trek, we reach Macha Khola, which literally means “Fish River”.

Day 5 • Machha Khola – Jagat • 4,625 ft

The trail from Macha Khola to Jagat passes through Khorlebeshi. Traversing through the jungle, we will see more Gurung settlements. From here, we will pass through Dobhan and Yaruphant villages. Doban which literally means “a confluence” is a junction between Shiar Khola and Sarpu Khola rivers.

Day 6 • Jagat – Nagyang Besi • 7,675 ft

We hike a moderate trail toward Nagyang Besi. After crossing a pass, we will have amazing views of Sringri Himal (7187m). Next, we utilize a suspension bridge, Nepal’s largest, over the Budhi Gandaki river. As we continue our journey, we pass through “Ekle Bhatti,” which literally means a lone teashop. From here we start our ascending up valley to Manaslu basecamp.

Day 7 • Nagyang Besi – Namrung • 8,730 ft

Our trek continues from Nagyang Besi through some local teashops, we enjoy great views of Shringi Himal and Tsum Valley towards the north. Beyond Deng, you will cross a bridge and trek past Rana (1980m) and pass Bihi (2130m), a village popularly known for stone carving. The trail follows Budhi Gandaki on its left, with some canyons and villages perched along till you reach Ghap (2160m). Continuing your journey through fir, rhododendron and pine forest, and meandering trail; you will come to Namrung (2660m), a small village with shops, restaurants and lodges.

Day 8 • Namrung – Lho Gaun • 10,500 ft

After an early breakfast we make our way to Lho Gaun. Along the trail we will pass traditional Tibetan settlements. We will also get our first views of Manaslu (8163m) and Manaslu North (7157m).

Day 9 • Lho Gaun – Sama Gaun • 11,550 ft

A short 3-hour trek takes us to Sama Gaun. We will have some free time to explore the the village before settling in for the night.

Day 10 • Sama Gaun – Basecamp • 15,750 ft

We begin our trek to basecamp, visiting Birendra Tal, a turquoise high-altitude lake. After that, we will continue to trek to Manaslu Base Camp. Basecamp lies at the northern part of the Manaslu Glacier. This camp is always buzzing with activity during the climbing season.

Day 11 – 50 • Climb of Manaslu

Over the next weeks our ascent follows an acclimatization schedule of equipment carries and rest days as our climbing team works to establish a series of four high camps on the upper flanks of the mountain.

Camp 1 • 19,000 ft (5,800m) – Camp 2 • 21,000 ft (6,400 meters)

Considered the technical crux of the mountain, we ascend through steep sections of fixed ropes and the occasional ladder to Camp 2. The terrain features long 40 degree snow slopes with a few vertical ice steps where front point crampon technique is required with the aid of fixed ropes.

Camp 2 – Camp 3 • 22,300 ft (6,800 meters)

Above Camp 2 the slope eases with intermittent steep sections accompanied by fixed ropes.

Camp 3 – Camp 4 • 24,442 ft (7,450 meters)

The climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4 is long and steep in some areas. At this altitude moving slowly and being efficient is the key.

Summit Attempt • 26,758 ft (8,163 meters)

We will get an early start for our long summit day. Leaving Camp 4 we will ascend the North East Ridge crossing over the East Pinnacle to the summit.

Day 51 • Basecamp – Samdo • 12,700 ft

Our descent from basecamp will follow the Manaslu Circuit to Samdo. This will be our reintroduction to the lush green farmland below.

Day 52 • Samdo – Dharmasala • 14,650 ft

Day 53 • Dharmasala – Bhimtang • 17,100 ft

We start early, making our way over Larkya La pass before it gets too windy. The surrounding views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kangguru, and the massive Annapurna II, are wonderful from this point.

Day 54 • Bhimtang – Goa • 8,250 ft

Day 55 • Goa – Dharapani • 6,440 ft

Walking along Dudh Khola literally meaning “milk river” for its color, we will trek past Tilije and Thonje. After this point, the trail joins the Annapurna circuit.

Day 56 • Dharapani – Besisahar • 2,200 ft

After a four-hour jeep drive, we arrive at Besisahar.

Day 57 • Besisahar – Kathmandu • 4,600 ft

A 7-hour bus ride will take us back to Kathmandu.

Day 58 • Kathmandu

After the long exhausting trek, you might have worn out a bit. Today, you can do some relaxation activities or just take some rest and connect will your friends and family back home. You can also just wander down the lively streets of Thamel and Asan and buy some souvenirs. In the evening your tour officer will pick you up for the dinner at one of the cultural restaurants of Thamel. After the dinner, you will be escorted back to your hotel.

Day 59 • Depart

Transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home. (B)

Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

DETAILS

Price

$15,000

Deposit and Payments

$5,000.00 deposit includes reservation fee, due with application.
Balance due 90 days prior to departure

Price Includes

  • Transportation to and from airport in Kathmandu
  • Hotels in Kathmandu
  • Overland transport from Kathmandu to Manaslu Base Camp
  • Hotels in Kathmandu
  • Lodges during the trek
  • Guided sightseeing tour
  • Scheduled meals during the trek and expedition
  • Climbing permit and fees
  • Single tent accommodations at basecamp
  • Professional mountain guide, high altitude porters
  • Basecamp coordinator and expedition cook staff
  • Dining tent w/ gas heater and hot shower, toilet tent
  • Solar charging, communications
  • Oxygen bottles, mask and regulator, Top-out system
  • Scheduled porter and yak service based on the itinerary
  • Baggage transport (limited to 40kg – 88lbs)
  • All group equipment for the expedition (including tents, stoves, group climbing gear, fixed ropes, emergency oxygen)

Price Does Not Include

  • International airfare and meals during travel
  • Visa fees
  • Non-scheduled airport transfers
  • Non-scheduled meals
  • Personal gear
  • Communication fees
  • Trip cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
  • Single room (hotels only) and porterage supplement
  • Medical and evacuation coverage (required)
  • Helicopter flights due to delays
  • Early departure fees
  • Excess baggage fees
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
  • Tips and gratuities

GEAR LIST

A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.

Head and Face

  • Warm Hat: Wool/ synthetic, one that covers the ears.
  • Buff or Neck Gaitor
  • Heavyweight Balaclava
  • Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
  • Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields.
  • Goggles: Dark lenses to help with snow and wind.
  • Sunscreen: SPF 30+
  • Lip Balm: SPF 30+
  • Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.

Upper Body

  • Baselayer Tops: Two synthetic long-sleeve shirts.
  • Mid-layer Top: This is a synthetic or fleece top.
  • Softshell Jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Hardshell Jacket: GORE-TEX© or a fully waterproof shell. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Insulated Jacket: Heavyweight 700+ fill down.
  • 8000 meter Expedition Down Suit: Insulated hood: 700+ fill down

Handwear

  • Lightweight Gloves: One pair (WINDSTOPPER© is recommended)
  • Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip.
  • Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer.
  • Expedition Down Mittens w/ wrist straps: One pair
  • Handwarmers / toe warmers: 3 sets of each

Lower Body

  • Baselayer Bottom: Two pair. Synthetic, no cotton
  • Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated
  • Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your Hardshell pants without removing your boots.
  • Insulated Pants: One pair of synthetic insulated pants with full side zips.
  • Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.

Footwear

  • Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible. Heavy weight synthetic/ hybrid mountaineering boots. 8000 meter mountaineering boots are required.
  • Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
  • Heavyweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.

Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boot and Crampon guide for more information.

Sleeping

  • Sleeping Bag: Bring a warm bag (rated to minus 40ᵒ fahrenheit).
  • Sleeping Pads: A full-length closed-cell foam pad and inflatable pad.

Packing and Backpack

  • Backpack: One 70L pack with good support, adequate to carry personal, and group gear. The pack should fit properly, have a good waist belt, and be able to carry gear between 30-40 lbs.
  • Duffle/zip Bag: Two large size, transporting gear to basecamp via mules.
  • Liner Bags: 4-6 Large plastic contractor bags.

Climbing Gear

  • Ice axe: 55-65cm mountaineering axe.
  • Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
  • Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
  • Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops.
  • Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
  • Locking Carabiners: (4) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners.
  • Non-locking Carabiners: (4) Wire gate non-locking carabiners.
  • Ascender: Left or right handed
  • Rappel/Delay device: Figure 8 recommended
  • Prussik Cord: 40 feet, 6mm perlon
  • Nylon Sling: (2) 60cm nylon slings

Hydration

  • Water Bottle: Two, 1L wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©
  • Water Bottle Parkas: Two, fully insulated water bottle covers.

Personal Health and First Aid

  • Snacks and drinks
  • Small personal first-aid kit and medications
  • Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
  • Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
  • Earplugs

TRAVEL & FITNESS

Travel

Program Location:
Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal

Visa/Entry Information:
Passport must have six months or more validity remaining at the time of entry. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. 90-day multiple-entry visa ($100)

Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal

Flight Travel Information:
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Nepal

International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the countries destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.

Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.

Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.

Manaslu Fitness & Training

Climbing Grade: Advanced   

As one of the highest points in the world, this climb requires significant physical, mental, and technical skills. Previous experience at altitude and expedition style climbing is a must. Be prepared to carry 40 lbs. packs at altitude, including supplemental oxygen tank. Experience with fixed lines, and steep snow / ice climbing are essential to making this trip a safe and enjoyable climb.

Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting Cho Oyu.

  • Northwest Climb and/or course (Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Shuksan)
  • Aconcagua
  • Denali

Frequently Asked Questions

Will I be able to contact friends and family while on the mountain?

Most cell phone providers will work in Nepal, check your provider for overseas rates before you leave. Beyond this wifi service is available at basecamp and along the trekking route ($100-$500 depending on usage). It is often best to purchase an unlocked cell phone and a local Ncell sim card if you intend do a lot of international calling. Cell phone and wifi service is not available above basecamp. Thuraya satellite phone service is more reliable at basecamp and above at higher camps.