PRICE

$4900

SCHEDULE

Fall
October 21 – November 9, 2019

DETAILS

20 days in Nepal
Grade: Beginner

 
 
 
 
 

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OVERVIEW

Our climb of Mera Peak is a true mountaineering adventure. The peak is situated in the remote and untouched Honku Valley within the Solukhumbu district, known for its isolated glaciers and formidable high mountain passes. Mera massif comprises three main summits, Mera North, 21,247 ft, Mera Central, 21,198 ft and Mera South, 19,898 ft. Mountain Gurus ascent takes us over 21,000 feet as we’re rewarded with spectacular scenery and ultimately one of the finest viewpoints in all the Himalaya. Five of the six highest peaks on earth can be seen from the summit of Mera peak including Everest (8848m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8463m) and Cho Oyu (8201m). For experienced climbers, the mountain is a technically straightforward glacier climb, the main hurdle being acclimatization to the high altitude. After heavy snow fall or in dry conditions, when a maze of crevasses are present, the way can be long and demanding. Above average physical conditioning and basic mountaineering skills are necessary.

Mera Peak Climb • 20 Days

The expedition begins by flying into the heart of the Everest Region to the village of Lukla. Shortly our route takes us over a high mountain pass into the remote Honku Valley. It’s a great trek and climb for those seeking to get away from the heavily traveled Khumbu Valley and an opportunity to venture into a little visited region of Nepal. The hill country is densely forested, and self-sufficiency is essential to survival for the local Sherpa people living in the region. After climbing Mera Peak, we will follow the trail to Baruntse Base Camp and cross the remote Amphu Laptsa pass down to Chhukung and proceed along the classic Everest route to Tengboche Monastery. We arrive in Namche Bazaar the main trading center of the Sherpa people and return to Lukla along the banks of the Dudh Koshi passing small Sherpa farming villages.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 1 • Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 • Lukla • Chutang • 11,300 ft
Day 3 • Kharkateng
Day 4 • Tuli Kharka via Zatrwa La • 15,124 ft
Day 5 • Mosom Kharka
Day 6 • Tagnag • 14,300 ft
Day 7 • Khare Camp • 16,400 ft
Day 8 • Contingency Day
Day 9 • Base Camp via Mera La • 17,765 ft
Day 10 • High Camp • 19,000 ft
Day 11 • Summit Day • Mera Peak • 21,198 ft
Day 12 • Contingency Day
Day 13 • Baruntse Base Camp
Day 14 • Panch Pokhari
Day 15 • Amphu Laptsa • 19,177 ft
Day 16 • Tengboche Monastery
Day 17 • Monjo
Day 18 • Lukla
Day 19 • Kathmandu
Day 20 • Depart Kathmandu

ITINERARY

Mera Peak Climb

Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal

Day 1 • Arrive Kathmandu

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, Nepal (KTM). Mountain Gurus representatives will transfer you to the hotel. Our trek begins in the historic city of Kathmandu, known for its fascinating Nepalese culture and ancient temples. The hotel is located near the popular Thamel district jammed with restaurants and shops selling Nepali handicrafts. In the late afternoon we will have a trek orientation and equipment check.

Day 2 • Lukla • 9,350 ft • Chutang • 11,300 ft

We transfer to Kathmandu’s domestic airport for our morning flight to Lukla. The views from the twin-engine Otter are nothing less than remarkable, providing amazing scenes of the terraced Nepalese hillside and Himalayan giants including the crown jewel Mount Everest towering in the distance. Once in Lukla we are welcomed with a cup of tea and meet our Sherpa staff. We then head eastwards towards Makalu Barun National Park. After three hours of we reach Chutang. (B, L, D)

Day 3 • Kharkateng • 12,300 ft

Now away from the main trekking route, we enjoy a quiet day of trekking, as we make our way through rhododendron forest, crossing several cascading streams along our route. We breathe fresh air and enjoy the mountain scenery. (B, L, D)

Day 4 • Tuli Kharka via Zatrwa La Pass • 14,200 ft

After breakfast, we climb towards Zatrwa pass, which extends from the impressive rocky ridge of the Kalo Himal. We ascend to a small notch through the Sebuk Danda Ridge where we continue along rocky terrain before reaching the Zatrwa La at 15,124 feet (4610m). The path drops down to the rugged, stream-filled, boulder strewn valley of Hinku Dranka. (B, L, D)

Day 5 • Mosom Kharka • 12,100 ft

We traverse the hillside crossing several spurs. Along the path we have good views of the South Face of Mera. We trek through beautiful forest full of rhododendron, birch and pine. We continue traversing along the hillside until we descend steeply through dense forest to the Inkha river. You can see Kyashar dominating the skyline to the north. (B, L, D)

Day 6 • Tagnag • 14,300 ft

Again we start out following the Inkha river. We pass a few yak herd buildings known as Kharka, we soon arrive at a small gompa with a buddha and prayer flags. We continue up the valley with the sheer rock face of Kusum Khangkaru at 20,896 feet towering above us. (B, L, D)

Day 7 • Khare Camp • 16,400 ft (4900m)

The trail steepens over moraine with spectacular scenery as we continue ascending and crossing streams. We come to the start of the glacier which leads to Mera La. We make camp at the edge of the glacier. (B, L, D)

Day 8 • Contingency Day

An additional day is scheduled for weather, second summit attempt, rest or acclimatization as needed. (B, L, D)

Day 9 • Base Camp via Mera La • 17,700 ft

A short day as we climb onto the glacier and along a beautiful snow ridge that leads to Mera La at 17,765 ft (5415m) and onto our base camp. In the afternoon we rest up and refresh climbing skills. (B, L, D)

Day 10 • High Camp • 19,000 ft

We climb from Mera La and ascend snow slopes to a rock outcrop that marks the divide between the Mera and Naulekh glaciers. We establish high camp. We enjoy views of five of the six highest peaks on earth, Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu as well as other notable Himalayan peaks including Baruntse and Ama Dablam. (B, L, D)

Day 11 • Summit Day • Mera Peak • 21,198 ft

Our summit days start early as we ascend the glacier roped up with ice axe and crampons. The dramatic snow ridge leads to the central summit, the highest point. We descend the route to Rato Odar known as red cave. (B, L, D)

Day 12 • Contingency Day

An additional day is scheduled for weather, second summit attempt, rest or acclimatization as needed. (B, L, D)

Day 13 • Baruntse Base Camp • 17,700 ft

We trek in the Honku Valley until three valleys meet Kusum, Thamserku and Thamarteka. We camp near the foot of Honku Glacier. (B, L, D)

Day 14 • Panch Pokhari

Our trek continues along five glaciated lakes known as holy lakes and a pilgrimage site. We camp at the foot of the Amphu Laptsa. (B, L, D)

Day 15 • Chhukung via Amphu Laptsa • 19,177 ft (5845m)

We rise early to cross the Amphu Laptsa, a glaciated pass covered with serac ice cliffs at the head of the Honku valley. This is a technical pass which requires fixed ropes, crampons and ice axe. We have stunning views of the Lhotse south wall, Mera Peak and Island Peak. After crossing the pass we will continue to the village of Chukkung. (B, L, D)

Day 16 – 19 • Chhukung – Kathmandu

Over the next days we descend to Dingboche, Namche and Lukla. (B, L, D)

Day 20 • Depart Kathmandu

Transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home. (B)

Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

DETAILS

Price

$4900

Deposit and Payments

$700.00 deposit includes reservation fee, due with application
Balance due 90 days prior to departure

Price Includes

  • Park fees and climbing permit
  • Lodges during the trek
  • Tented accommodations
  • Scheduled meals during the expedition
  • Professional mountain guide
  • Scheduled porter service based on itinerary
  • Baggage transport (limited to 30kg – 66lbs)
  • All group equipment for the expedition (including tents, stoves, group climbing gear, fixed ropes, emergency oxygen)

Price Does Not Include

  • International airfare and meals during travel
  • Visa fees
  • Non-scheduled airport transfers
  • Non-scheduled meals
  • Personal gear
  • Non-scheduled porter service
  • Trip cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
  • Single room supplement (hotels only)
  • Medical and evacuation coverage
  • Helicopter flights due to delays
  • Early departure fees
  • Excess baggage fees
  • Tips and gratuities

A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.

Head and Face

  • Warm Hat: Wool/ synthetic, one that covers the ears.
  • Buff or Neck Gaitor
  • Heavyweight Balaclava
  • Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
  • Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields.
  • Goggles: Dark lenses to help with snow and wind.
  • Sunscreen: SPF 30+
  • Lip Balm: SPF 30+
  • Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.

Upper Body

  • Baselayer Tops: One synthetic long-sleeve shirt.
  • Mid-layer Top: This is a synthetic or fleece top.
  • Softshell Jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Hardshell Jacket: GORE-TEX© or a fully waterproof shell. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Insulated Jacket: Heavyweight 700+ fill down.

Handwear

  • Lightweight Gloves: One pair (WINDSTOPPER© is recommended)
  • Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip.
  • Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer.
  • Handwarmers: 1 set

Lower Body

  • Baselayer Bottom: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton
  • Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated
  • Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your Hardshell pants without removing your boots.
  • Insulated Pants: One pair of synthetic insulated pants with full side zips.
  • Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.

Footwear

  • Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible. Heavy weight synthetic/ hybrid mountaineering boots.
  • Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
  • Heavyweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.

Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boot and Crampon guide for more information.

Sleeping

  • Sleeping Bag: Bring a warm bag (rated to 0ᵒ fahrenheit).
  • Sleeping Pads: A full-length closed-cell foam pad and inflatable pad.

Packing and Backpack

  • Backpack: One 70L pack with good support, adequate to carry personal, and group gear. The pack should fit properly, have a good waist belt, and be able to carry gear between 30-40 lbs.
  • Duffle/zip Bag: one large size, transporting gear to basecamp via mules.
  • Liner Bags: 2 Large plastic contractor bags.

Climbing Gear

  • Ice axe: 55-65cm mountaineering axe.
  • Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
  • Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
  • Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops.
  • Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
  • Locking Carabiners: (4) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners.
  • Non-locking Carabiners: (2) Wire gate non-locking carabiners.
  • Ascender: Left or right handed
  • Rappel/Delay device: Figure 8 recommended
  • Prussik Cord: 40 feet, 6mm perlon
  • Nylon Sling: (2) 60cm nylon slings

Hydration

  • Water Bottle: Two, 1L wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©

Personal Health and First Aid

  • Snacks and drinks
  • Small personal first-aid kit and medications
  • Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
  • Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
  • Earplugs

TRAVEL & FITNESS

Travel

Program Location:
Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal

Visa/Entry Information:
Passport must have six months or more validity remaining at the time of entry. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. 30 day multiple-entry visa ($40), or 90 day multiple-entry visa ($100)

Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal

Flight Travel Information:
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Nepal

International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the countries destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.

Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.

Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.

Mera Peak Fitness & Training

Climbing Grade: Beginner

Mera Peak is usually climbed after an acclimatization trek to Mera Peak Basecamp. This is highly recommended as altitude can be a determining factor on success on this climb. We recommend climbers to have basic snow and climbing skills before attempting this peak. Good physical conditioning is required, with pack weights ranging between 30-40 lbs. to high camp.

Prior to the expedition we recommend taking at minimum a mountaineering course and spending time at altitude.

Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting Mera Peak.

  • Northwest Climb (Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Shuksan)
  • Mount Elbrus
  • Mexican Volcanoes, Ecuador Volcanoes, Peaks of Bolivia

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the physical requirements needed for this trek and climb?

The trek requires 6-8 hours of hiking per day with a 20 lbs. pack. The climb requires 10-14 hours of climbing with a 25 lbs. pack. Elevation gains of 3000-4000+ feet per day. Strong hiking skills and excellent physical conditioning are required.

Who will be guiding?

Our Nepal climbs are led by a Nepalese (Sherpa) mountain guides or an American mountain guide with extensive experience leading our climbing teams. They will be accompanied by assistant Sherpa guides and porters. Many of these guides are native to the Khumbu (Everest) region of Nepal.

What are the Nepal climbing seasons?

The best time to trek is in the pre-monsoon Spring season, March-April-May and the post-monsoon Fall season, October-November. Nepal experiences the monsoon (heavy rains and snow) from June to September. Winter is very cold in the high mountains (December-February).

How much will my pack weigh?

During the trek you will only carry the gear you’ll use for each day. Porters will carry all your extra clothing items and overnight gear. At no point will you carry camping gear or equipment for overnight. Daypacks should not weigh more than 15-20 lbs. for your comfort. On summit day we will be breathing heavy, moving slowly, and carrying our 25 lbs. summit packs. Being in top physical and mental condition is key to succeeding on this climb.

Where will we be staying?

In Kathmandu we stay at clean and comfortable hotels, during the trek we utilize mountain lodges owned and operated by the local people. During the climbing portions of the trip and in remote areas with overnight in mountain tents.