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PREREQUISITES FOR EVEREST

Climbers wishing to qualify for a Mount Everest expedition must have completed, at minimum, one of each of the following with Mountain Gurus & Northwest Alpine Guides:

Glacier Mountaineering Expedition Training
6-Day Expedition Training (preferred)
5-Day Glacier Mountaineering Course

High-Altitude Glacier Mountaineering Experience
Pico de Orizaba – Mexico
Cotopaxi – Ecuador
Aconcagua – Argentina

Additionally, it is highly recommended that you have honed your glacier mountaineering skills with successful summits of various PNW peaks such, Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Mount Olympus, and Mount Rainier.

DETAILS

58 days in Nepal
Grade: Advanced

 
 
 
 
 

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OVERVIEW

Our Mount Everest expedition team is now open to qualified climbers. If you have been training for a world-class climb and are ready to tackle the toughest of the Seven Summits, Mountain Gurus is ready to take you to the roof of the world! Mountain Gurus offers two different options on the South Side of the world’s highest mountain: an expedition led by a team of highly experienced IFMGA-certified Sherpa guides, or a climb spearheaded by a western guide. We can also pair you with a personal Sherpa or western guide for a truly exceptional private guided experience. All of our Everest expeditions are under the oversight and leadership of a renowned American expedition leader with more than 10 summits of 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. Please contact us directly to learn more about our 58-day full-service climbs.

Mount Everest is the highest mountain on earth and is considered the planet’s premier guided climbing challenge. It was first summited by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmond Hillary in 1953. At 29,032 feet, Mount Everest is one of the fourteen eight thousand-meter peaks. It is known in Nepalese as Sagarmatha “Goddess of the Sky,” and in Tibetan as Chomolungma “Mother Goddess of the Universe.”

We approach the summit from the South Side via the infamous Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm and South Col. Mount Everest does not pose a substantial technical climbing challenge, but it requires a high level of physical fitness and the ability to climb proficiently on steep and exposed terrain at high altitude. An ascent to the summit of Mount Everest is one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering.

Mount Everest • South Side Expedition • 58 Days

Mountain Gurus proudly offers a fully supported Mount Everest climb. Our team of experienced Sherpa guides will handle all the logistics during the expedition, with the oversight of our experienced American guide. As IFMGA/UIAGM trained mountain guides, our Sherpa guides take great pride in managing ground operations and working with our team of climbing Sherpas to ensure your safety and success on the mountain. Each of our mountain guides has extensive experience on Mount Everest with multiple summit climbs.

Our South Side expedition begins in the ancient city of Kathmandu, Nepal’s thriving capital. We fly to Lukla and trek along the Dudh Koshi, or “Milk River,“ to the legendary village of Namche Bazaar, the main trading center of the Sherpa people and the gateway to the Khumbu Valley. Over the next week, we are rewarded with amazing views of the Himalaya as we approach Everest Base Camp at 17,700 feet. From base camp, we follow the famous South Side climbing route through the seracs and crevasses of the Khumbu Icefall using fixed ropes and ladders prepared by our Sherpa climbing team. We then climb to Camp 2 via the Western Cwm, and to Camp 3 high on the Lhotse Face. We establish our final camp, Camp 4, on the windswept South Col at 26,300 feet. On Summit Day, we climb the Southeast Ridge to the Balcony at 27,500 feet. We then continue to the South Summit at 28,500 feet, and across the exposed final ridge for a few hundred feet before reaching the Hillary Step and the true summit at 29,035 feet.

Need help choosing a trip?
Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you.

Why climb Mount Everest with Mountain Gurus?

Mountain Gurus offers a fully supported world-class Mount Everest climbing experience. Our Everest expeditions are staffed by a phenomenal team of fully certified Sherpa guides overseen by an experienced western guide with extensive experience on 8,000-meter peaks. Under his leadership, more than 100 climbers from 20 countries have stood on the summit of Mount Everest.

To maximize your chances of success and minimize the risks you face, we plan our expeditions in minute detail. In base camp you’ll enjoy hot showers, excellent hot meals prepared by our professional chef, cozy tented accommodations and heated dining tents because we firmly believe that comfortable, well-nourished, healthy climbers in base camp become strong, successful climbers on the mountain.

We base our climbing strategy on the best weather forecasting available and a refined acclimatization schedule that includes an ascent of Lobuche East (20,075 feet). Lobuche is a world-class mountaineering objective in its own right, and climbing it is an excellent way to move one of our acclimatization rotations out of the hazardous Khumbu Icefall. Once on the mountain, we work with lightweight oxygen systems and the highest–quality mountaineering equipment. Throughout the expedition, yak teams, porters and climbing sherpas will assist in moving group gear. From booking to the summit and back again, our team looks forward to assisting you. To learn more about our services, history and philosophy, please visit: Why Choose Mountain Gurus.

What experience do I need to climb Mount Everest?

Are you ready for the ultimate adventure? Climbing Mount Everest is not for the faint of heart. This is an expedition that demands excellent physical fitness, solid climbing skills, the ability to function at high altitude, a positive attitude for rugged adventure travel, and a schedule that allows you to leave home for 8 to 10 weeks. For many climbers, summiting Mount Everest is the culmination of years of preparation and training, both mental and physical.

Before you consider participating in a Mount Everest summit expedition, you should gain high altitude expedition climbing experience on mountains such as Denali, Aconcagua, Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu and Island Peak. You must possess a solid technical mountaineering skillset, including familiarity with crampon and ice axe technique, glacier travel, fixed lines, self-arrest, crevasse rescue, camping in severe weather, knots, anchors and other ropework. Please read our blog post about The Four-Legged Stool for a better understanding of the skills needed for Mount Everest.

If you want to climb Mount Everest, but you are missing some of the necessary skills or experience, please contact us. We would be glad to get you up to speed prior to the expedition! If you are new to climbing but have set you sights on the highest peak on the planet, we would be happy to help you design an incremental training plan to develop the skills, expedition experience and strength for a trip to the Roof of the World.

If you aspire to climb the heights of Mount Everest and are new to climbing, check out our Northwest climbs and courses to get you started developing the basics. From there, we can recommend incrementally challenging expeditions to set you on a road toward developing the skills you will need to summit Mount Everest with the understanding that this is a journey that takes years to prepare for and months to physically accomplish!

What does the Mount Everest climbing expedition include?

An expedition to the summit of Mount Everest is both a literal walk in Sagarmartha National Park – one of the world’s most beautiful protected areas – and a rigorous adventure that will challenge your body and mind. The expedition consists of three distinct segments: First, the trek to Everest Base Camp. Second, our time in base camp as we complete acclimatization rotations on the mountain. Third, our summit ascent.

Journey to Base Camp: Our team assembles at the famous, 5-star Yak and Yeti Hotel in Kathmandu for an orientation and gear check. We then hop a twin-engine flight into Lukla (9,000 feet) with fantastic views of Mount Everest and surrounding peaks.

We spend the next 12 days hiking up the Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp at 17,600 feet. Along the way, we stay in some of the finest lodges available so that we can focus all of our energy on the approaching climb. We stroll through local bazaars and farming villages where yaks graze in terraced pastures. We cross a suspension bridge strung high above the Milk River and visit monasteries and a memorial to lost climbers. We make a critical acclimatization ascent of Lobuche East, a striking 20,075-foot pyramid of ice and rock. The following day we walk into base camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall.

Everest Base Camp and Acclimatization: We settle into base camp where each climber enjoys an individual, spacious sleeping tent, as well as the team’s communal dining, hangout and communication tents. All of the communal tents are heated. Team members will have Internet access.

We use a careful, methodical acclimatization process to minimize our susceptibility to altitude illness and maximize our strength on our summit ascent. We make three forays to successively higher altitudes on the mountain with plenty of rest at base camp in between. We establish Camp 1 at 19,500 feet just above the Khumbu Icefall. We situate Camp 2 on a moraine at 21,000 feet below Everest’s spectacular Southwest Face. Camp 3 is at 23,500 feet near the South Face of Lhotse.

In between acclimatization rotations, we practice mountaineering skills in base camp to ensure that you are prepared for the summit ascent. Topics will include fixed line and ladder techniques, oxygen systems and other skills.

Everest Summit: We start our summit ascent from Camp 2. From Camp 3, we begin sleeping and climbing with oxygen to ensure we are climbing as strongly and safely as possible as we make our way into the “Death Zone” above 8,000 feet. The route from Camp 4 leads up the Southeast Ridge across the Balcony at 27,500 and to the South Summit at 28,500 feet. A few hundred feet more and we reach the Hillary Step and then the main summit. We celebrate, take photos to document our achievement, and descend safely and efficiently to Camp 4, then back to base camp. We have just completed one of the most challenging climbs on earth and stood atop the greatest of the Seven Summits.

What are the risks of an Everest expedition?

As with any high–altitude adventure, climbing Mount Everest entails danger. Our professional guide staff will work diligently to ensure your safety and mitigate risks during the expedition. You can do your part by arriving in Nepal in peak physical and mental condition, and with sufficient climbing experience under your belt. Ultimately, the mountain decides who will stand on the summit, but by carefully preparing – and wisely choosing the right guide company – you maximize your ability to take advantage of every opportunity the mountain gives to you.

We carefully mitigate the risks of altitude sickness with a conservative acclimatization strategy and the best lightweight oxygen systems. Additional oxygen is available by request. You can do your part by keeping your guides informed about how you are feeling during the ascent. All Mountain Gurus staff are trained in wilderness emergency medicine and have extensive experience working at altitude. Our staff is trained to give you a safe, successful, enjoyable experience.

What are my responsibilities for the Mount Everest climb?

Your program fees cover a fully supported expedition to the roof of the world. However, the following expenses are not included: your roundtrip international flights to and from Kathmandu, Nepal, and associated travel expenses including baggage fees and visas; any non-scheduled meals or drinks; personal snacks on the climb; personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries and other items; trip cancellation insurance; required medical or evacuation insurance and expenses; gratuities for your guides and local staff.

You are also responsible for your own climbing training and physical conditioning prior to the expedition. Mount Everest is a rigorous physical and mental challenge that will test your fitness and mountaineering skills. Proper preparation is key to a safe, successful summit climb.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 1 • Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 • Kathmandu Orientation
Day 3 • Flight to Lukla • Phakding
Day 4 • Namche Bazaar • 11,300 ft
Day 5 • Namche Bazaar
Day 6 • Tengboche • 12,850 ft
Day 7 • Tengboche
Day 8 • Pheriche • 13,950 ft
Day 9 • Pheriche
Day 10 • Lobuche Base Camp
Day 11 • Lobuche Base Camp
Day 12 • Lobuche High Camp
Day 13 • Rest Day
Day 14 • Lobuche Peak • 20,075 ft
Day 15 • Everest Base Camp • 17,600 ft
Day 16 – 30 • First and Second Rotation
– Khumbu Icefall to Camp I • 19,500 ft
– Western Cwm to Camp II • 21,000 ft
– South Face to Camp III • 23,500 ft
Day 31 – 34 • Everest Base Camp
Day 35 – 39 • Summit Rotation
– Camp III to South Col • 26,300 ft
– South Col to the Summit • 29,032 ft
Day 40 – 45 • Pheriche • Lukla
Day 46 • Flight to Kathmandu
Day 47 • Depart
Day 48 – 58 • Contingency Days

“The end-to-end logistics of planning an 8000-meter climb can be very daunting. I really have Mountain Gurus to thank for coordinating all aspects of my successful Everest expedition.” ~ Brian D, Spring 2011

“As I sit here and wait to board on my flight to attempt my 4th of the 7 Summits I can’t help but think about how I got here. Having my ‘perfect’ life turn a complete 180 and at the darkest of moments in my life I had found a calling and a core group of climbers who I am honored to call my friends. Dennis Broadwell and Mountain Gurus, if it wasn’t for you taking me under your wing and both pushing and teaching the ways of the mountain while accepting my disability…I probably would still be lost with no life mission. It was the start of something that would become amazing.” ~ Benjamin B, Spring 2015

ITINERARY

Mount Everest • Southside

While we strive to adhere to the itinerary below, we may adjust our schedule to meet our acclimatization goals while managing weather and route conditions on the mountain. An adaptable, positive attitude is one of the most important tools you can bring to Mount Everest. Team members may choose to use a helicopter service for the trekking phase of the trip.

Day 1 • Arrive Kathmandu

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, Nepal (KTM). Mountain Gurus representatives will meet you at the airport and transfer you to our hotel. We stay in the famous Yaki and Yeti Hotel near Kathmandu’s bustling Thamel District, surrounded by the shops, restaurants and ancient temples of this vibrant capital city.

Accommodations: Hotel in Kathmandu

Day 2 • Kathmandu

The team assembles for an expedition orientation, equipment check and welcome dinner. During the day we have time to explore Kathmandu and purchase any last-minute items.

Accommodations: Hotel in Kathmandu
Meals Included: Breakfast, Welcome Dinner (B, D)

Day 3 • Flight to Lukla • Phakding • 8,700 feet

We transfer to Kathmandu’s domestic airport for our morning flight to Lukla. The views from the twin-engine Otter are nothing less than remarkable as we fly over the emerald, terraced farms of the Himalayan foothills with the crown jewel, Mount Everest, towering in the distance. Our Sherpa staff welcomes us to Lukla with cups of hot tea, then we set out on the first leg of our trek across rolling terrain toward the Khumbu Valley. We walk several hours to the village of Phakding, which clings to the sides of a steep gorge separated by a long suspension bridge.

Vertical Descent Trekking: 600 feet
Trekking Time: 3-4 hours

Accommodations: Lodge at Phakding
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals or porters

Day 4 • Namche Bazaar • 11,300 feet

Our trek continues. We cross the Dudh Koshi – “Milky River” – many times as we walk through small Sherpa farming villages surrounded by “mani stones,” polished stones carved with Tibetan Buddhist mantras, and fluttering prayer flags. Porters and pack animals carry all of our heavy expedition gear, leaving us free to walk with light day packs. After we enter Sagarmatha National Park, our trail ascends through steep conifer and rhododendron forests, giving us our first glimpses of Mount Everest before we arrive in Namche Bazaar, the main trading center of the Sherpa people and the true gateway to the Khumbu Valley.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 2,600 feet
Trekking Time: 5-6 hours

Accommodations: Lodge at Namche Bazaar
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals or porters

Day 5 • Namche Bazaar • 11,300 feet

We begin our day with an acclimatization hike to Sunrise Point on the upper edge of Namche Bazaar near the Everest View Hotel. Our effort is rewarded with spectacular views of Mount Everest, the massive Nuptse face, Lhotse and the beautiful pyramid of Ama Dablam. On the way down, we explore the lively, stone-paved streets of Namche, lined with shops and street merchants selling Tibetan wares. We cannot resist stopping by a local bakery for a cup of coffee and slice of apple pie. We spend the rest of the day relaxing and enjoying the fresh mountain atmosphere. On Saturday mornings, a local market is held in the center of the village which allows for interesting people watching.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 300 feet to Sunrise Point
Trekking Time: 1 hour roundtrip

Accommodations: Lodge at Namche Bazaar
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: N/A

Day 6 – 7 • Tengboche Monastery • 12,850 feet

From Namche Bazaar our trekking route follows a steep hillside high above the Imja Khola. Magnificent views of Ama Dablam, Kantega, and Thamserku await us around every bend. We descend to the river, cross it, and begin the steep climb to Tengboche, generally regarded as the hardest ascent of the approach trek. Tengboche is the largest monastery and spiritual heart of the Khumbu Region. We spend the afternoon touring the monastery and chatting with its monks. With luck, we may meet Nawang Tenzing Jangpo, the Rinpoche – or main teacher – of the monastery thought to be an incarnation of the Sherpa spiritual leader Lama Gulu. We stay in Tengboche two nights to rest and acclimatize.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 1,500 feet
Trekking Time: 6 hours

Accommodations: Lodge at Tengboche
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals or porters

Day 8 • Pheriche • 13,950 feet

The next morning, we ascend through the last rhododendron forests and cross another suspension bridge high above the Imja Khola. The route climbs through sheer valley walls to Pangboche, traditionally the highest year-round settlement in the Khumbu Valley. We have now climbed into the alpine climate zone and we leave most vegetation behind as we enter Pheriche.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 1,000 feet
Trekking Time: 4-6 hours

Accommodations: Lodge at Pheriche
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals or porters

Day 9 • Pheriche • 13,950 feet

Rest and acclimatization day. In the morning we can climb the ridge above Pheriche and neighboring Dingboche to 17,000 feet for views of Makalu, the world’s fifth highest peak. In the afternoon we may visit the HRA (Himalayan Rescue Association) for an acclimatization lecture.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 3,050 feet
Trekking Time: 2-3 hours

Accommodations: Lodge at Pheriche
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: N/A

Day 10 – 11 • Lobuche Base Camp • 16,000 feet

After breakfast we cross the Khumbu valley toward the East Face of Lobuche Peak, and hike to base camp on the edge of Hidden Lake. The next day we make an acclimatization hike to high camp, then return to base camp for a second night.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 2,100 feet to Lobuche Base Camp
Trekking Time: 6-7 hours

Accommodations: Tented Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals or porters

Day 12 – 13 • Lobuche High Camp • 17,700 feet

We climb to high camp. Rest and acclimatization for tomorrow’s summit climb. From here views of Ama Dablam and other Himalayan peaks are remarkable.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 1,700 feet to Lobuche High Camp
Trekking Time: 2-4 hours

Accommodations: Tented Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals or porters

Day 14 • Summit Day • Lobuche East Peak • 20,075 feet

We awake before dawn for an alpine start. The Southeast Ridge Route begins at the edge of the glacier and ascends a narrow ridge of 45- to 50-degree alpine ice. As we gain the summit ridge, Everest and Lhotse rise into view high above us. We traverse a 30-degree ridge to the summit plateau surrounded by a 360° panorama of five of the planet’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. We descend our route back to base camp.

Vertical Ascent Climbing: 2,400 feet
Climbing Time: 5-7 hours

Accommodations: Tents at Lobuche Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Pack Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals or porters

Day 15 • Everest Base Camp • 17,600 feet

We complete the final leg of our trek to Everest Base Camp. We ascend the glacier past trains of yaks carrying supplies for this season’s expeditions until we walk into the busy tent city at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. This hive of climbing activity will be our home for the weeks to come. Our base camp team greets us with hot tea and snacks and we move into our individual sleeping tents complete with thick 6-inch pads, liners to keep out the damp and, of course, pillows.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 1,600 feet
Trekking Time: 3-5 hours

Accommodations: Everest Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals or porters

Day 16 – 30 • First and Second Rotation

We settle into base camp and spend the next few days acclimatizing, organizing gear and settling into expedition life. Once we’ve had time to rest, we spend two days practicing fixed ropes, ladders and other climbing skills in the lower Khumbu Glacier. Before beginning our acclimatization rotations, we participate in an expedition puja ceremony led by our Sherpa staff. Then, over the next three to four weeks, we progress through a methodical series of acclimatization ascents, equipment carries and rest days. Our rotations include an excursion to Pumori Camp 1 in addition to trips through the Khumbu Icefall to our own Camps 1, 2 and 3.

Khumbu Icefall to Camp I • 19,500 feet

We climb through the shifting seracs and crevasses of the icefall on fixed ropes and ladders prepared by our Sherpa climbing team. Camp 1 is located a short distance above the icefall.

Vertical Ascent Climbing: 1,900 feet
Climbing Time: 5-7 hours

Accommodations: Tents in Camp 1
Meals Included: Breakfast, Pack Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Climbing Sherpas

Western Cwm to Camp II • 21,000 feet

Camp 2 is located on a moraine below Mount Everest’s spectacular Southwest Face.

Vertical Ascent Climbing: 1,500 feet
Climbing Time: 4-6 hours

Accommodations: Tents in Camp 2
Meals Included: Breakfast, Pack Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Climbing Sherpas

Lhotse South Face to Camp III • 23,500 feet

Camp 3 is perched high on the Lhotse South Face. We sleep at Camp 3 for one or two nights before heading down to Base Camp to rest before our summit attempt.

Vertical Ascent Climbing: 2,500 feet
Climbing Time: 5-7 hours

Accommodations: Tents in Camp 3
Meals Included: Breakfast, Pack Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Climbing Sherpas

Day 31 – 34 • Everest Base Camp • 17,600 feet

We spend the next week resting and preparing for our summit attempt. We may opt to descend to a lower elevation within the Khumbu Valley to assist in preparing ourselves for the challenge of climbing the world’s highest mountain.

Accommodations: Everest Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 35 – 39 • Summit Rotation

We spend the next week resting and preparing for our summit attempt. We may opt to descend to a lower elevation in the Khumbu Valley to better prepare ourselves to summit the world’s highest mountain.

Yellow Band and Geneva Spur to South Col Camp IV • 26,300 feet

We climb from base camp to Camp 3, spending one night at each camp. At Camp 3 we begin sleeping on oxygen. We climb to the windswept South Col where we establish our final camp: Camp 4.

Vertical Ascent Climbing: 8,700 feet over 4 days

Accommodations: Tents in Camps 1-4
Meals Included: Breakfast, Pack Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Climbing Sherpas

South Col to the Summit of Mount Everest • 29,032 feet (8,848m)

We leave Camp 4 early, climbing the Southeast Ridge with oxygen to the Balcony at 27,500 feet. We continue to the South Summit (28,500 ft). From here we traverse the exposed ridge for a few hundred meters before reaching the Hillary Step, and then continue to the main summit. We step onto the top of the world and share the excitement of our accomplishment. After taking summit photos, we descend efficiently past the South Col to Camp 2 at the Western Cwm.

Vertical Ascent Climbing: 3,100 feet
Trekking Time: 10-15 hours

Accommodations: Tents in Camp 3
Meals Included: Breakfast, Pack Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Climbing Sherpas

Day 40 – 45 • Base Camp • Pheriche • Namche Bazaar • Lukla

From Camp 2 we descend directly to base camp. We rest and then retrace our steps to Lukla over the course of the next several days.

Accommodations: Trekking Lodges
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 46 • Flight to Kathmandu

After saying farewell to our Sherpa staff, we depart to Kathmandu on an early morning flight. We spend the rest of the day on a flexible schedule, resting or exploring the Kathmandu Valley depending on the desires of the group. Kathmandu is home to the famous Buddhist stupas of Swayambunath and Boudhanath, as well as Pashupatinath, one of the most famous Hindu temples in Nepal. The incredible architecture of Kathmandu Durbar Square is a short walk from our hotel, and the ornate wooden construction of Patan is an easy taxi ride across the valley. Some in the group may simply want to relax and shop in Thamel.

Accommodations: Hotel in Kathmandu
Meals Included: Breakfast (B)

Day 47 • Depart

Transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home.

Meals Included: Breakfast (B)

Day 48 – 58 • Contingency Days

Additional days are scheduled for weather or acclimatization as needed.

Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

DETAILS

Price

Inquire for price

  • IFMGA Certified Sherpa Guided
  • Western “American” Guided
  • Private Western Guided

Deposit and Payments

  • A non-refundable deposit of $10,000.00 per person secures your reservation.
  • The balance is due 120 days prior to the start date.
  • The deposit and balance can be paid by bank transfer, or wire transfer.
  • If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees forfeited.

Price Includes

  • Scheduled land transportation in Nepal
  • Round-trip flight to Lukla
  • Sagamatha National Park fees
  • Hotels in Kathmandu
  • Lodges during the trek
  • Guided sightseeing tour
  • Scheduled meals during the trek and expedition
  • Lobuche Peak climb
  • Climbing permit and Icefall fees
  • Single tent accommodations at basecamp
  • Professional mountain guide, high altitude porters
  • Basecamp coordinator and expedition cook staff
  • Heated dining and hangout tents and hot shower, toilet tent
  • Solar charging, communications
  • Oxygen bottles (7), mask and regulator system
  • Scheduled porter and yak service based on the itinerary
  • Baggage transport (limited to 40kg / 88lbs)
  • All group equipment for the expedition (including tents, stoves, group climbing gear, fixed ropes, emergency oxygen)

Price Does Not Include

  • International airfare and meals during travel
  • Visa fees
  • Non-scheduled airport transfers
  • Non-scheduled meals
  • Personal gear
  • Communication fees (cell, sat, wifi)
  • Trip cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
  • Single room (hotels only) and porterage supplement
  • Medical and evacuation coverage (required)
  • Helicopter flights due to delays
  • Early departure fees
  • Excess baggage fees
  • Sherpa tip pool
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
  • Tips and gratuities

GEAR LIST

A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.

Head and Face

  • Warm Hat: Two heavyweight wool or synthetic that cover the ears
  • Buff or Neck Gaiter
  • Heavyweight Balaclava
  • Full face mask: Must cover all skin on face and can be worn with goggles
  • Sun Hat or Baseball Cap: Should protect the neck
  • Glacier Glasses: Two pair. Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields. One pair must be Category 4.
  • Goggles: Two pair. One pair with dark lenses, one pair with clear lenses.
  • Prescription Eyewear: (If needed)
  • Sunscreen: SPF 30+
  • Lip Balm: SPF 30+
  • Climbing LED Headlamps: One medium sized and one small sized as a backup.
  • Headlamp Batteries: Bring enough for 6 weeks with some to spare

Upper Body

  • Lightweight Baselayer Top: Two synthetic long-sleeve shirts.
  • Medium Weight Baselayer Top: This is a synthetic or fleece top.
  • Vest: Down or synthetic
  • Softshell Jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Hardshell Jacket: GORE-TEX© or a fully waterproof shell. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Insulated Jacket: Heavyweight 700+ fill down.
  • 8000 meter Expedition Down Suit: Insulated hood: 700+ fill down. Leg zippers. Arm pit zippers. Butt zipper.

Handwear

  • Lightweight Gloves: One pair (WINDSTOPPER© is recommended)
  • Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip
  • Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer
  • Expedition Down Mittens w/ wrist straps: One pair rated for 8,000 meters
  • Handwarmers / toe warmers: 3 sets of each

Lower Body

  • Lightweight Baselayer Bottom: One pair long underwear. Synthetic, no cotton
  • Mediumweight Baselayer Bottom: One pair long underwear. Synthetic, no cotton
  • Underwear: Four pair. Synthetic is best.
  • Lightweight Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated
  • Mediumweight Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated
  • Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants. Full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your Hardshell pants without removing your boots.
  • Insulated Pants: One pair of synthetic insulated pants with full side zips.
  • Medium Weight Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots

Footwear

  • Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible. Heavy weight synthetic / hybrid mountaineering boots. 8,000 meter mountaineering boots are required.
  • Medium Weight Trekking Boots: For approach to base camp
  • Sorel Type Boots: For relaxing in cold weather at base camp
  • Lightweight sneakers: For travel and base camp
  • Down Booties: With a durable sole
  • Lightweight socks: Two pair
  • Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks
  • Heavyweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks to be worn in climbing boots
  • Electronic Boot Warmers: (Optional)
  • Foot powder: Keeps feet dry and warm

Sleeping

  • Down Sleeping Bag: Bring a warm bag (rated to minus 40ᵒ fahrenheit).
  • Sleeping Pads: A full-length closed-cell foam pad and inflatable pad.

Packing and Backpack

  • Climbing Pack: One 60-liter pack with good support, adequate to carry personal, and group gear. The pack should fit properly, have a good waist belt, and be able to carry gear between 30-40 lbs.
  • Day Pack: Lightweight 30-liter pack
  • Duffle Bags: Two large, waterproof PVC duffel bags for transporting gear to base camp via pack animals
  • Pack cover
  • Liner Bags: 4 to 6 large plastic contractor bags

Climbing Gear

  • Ice Axe: 55-65cm mountaineering axe with leash
  • Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates. Must fit your climbing boots
  • Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
  • Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with detachable leg loops
  • Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets
  • Locking Carabiners: (4) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners
  • Non-locking Carabiners: (4) Wire gate non-locking carabiners
  • Ascender: Left or right handed
  • Rappel/Delay device: Figure 8 recommended
  • Prussik Cord: 40 feet, 6mm perlon
  • Nylon Slings (60 cm): Two (2) single length nylon slings
  • Nylon Slings (120 cm): Two (2) double length nylon slings

Hydration

  • Water Bottle: Two, 1L wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©
  • Water Bottle Parkas: Two, fully insulated water bottle covers
  • Thermos: 1-liter
  • Water purification: Iodine tablets, filter or UV treatment
  • Electrolyte drink mix: Such as Nuun

Personal Travel, Health and First Aid

  • Travel wallet for passport, cash and travel documents
  • Five (5) passport photos
  • Casual travel clothes
  • Personal snacks: We recommend 5 pounds (2 kilos). A mix of sweet and salty whole foods (nuts, dried fruit, dried meat) and energy foods such as Gu, Nuun and Shot Blocks
  • Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
  • Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
  • Hand sanitzer (several small bottles)
  • Small soap
  • Small shampoo
  • Quick-dry towel
  • Toothbrush / paste
  • Nail trimmers
  • Baby wipes
  • Earplugs
  • Books or Kindle/iPad with movies or T.V. series
  • Camera
  • Altitude watch
  • Multitool
  • Small portable humidifier that runs off a USB stick for use in tents at to maintain respiratory health and prevent Khumbu cough (optional)
  • Small personal first-aid kit including:
    • Diamox / acetalzolamide: 125 mg
    • Niphedepene: time release for pulmonary edema
    • Dexamethazone: 4mg for cerebral edema
    • NSAIDs such as aspirin or ibuprofen
    • Antibiotics: such as Azithromyacin for upper respiratory, Ciproflaxin for gastrointestinal
    • Melatonin
    • Antacids
    • Cold and flu meds
    • Blister kit
    • Bandaid
    • Wound closure strips
    • Triple antibiotic ointment
    • Scissors
    • Any personal prescription meds or asthma meds

TRAVEL & FITNESS

Travel

Program Location:
Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal

Visa/Entry Information:
Passport must have six months or more validity remaining at the time of entry. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu.

• 30 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($50 USD)
• 90 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($125 USD)

Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal. Consult your doctor, local travel clinic or Centers for Disease Control (CDC) for updated immunization recommendations in Nepal and China. Recommended immunizations include: diphtheria-tetanus (DPT), polio, measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), meningitis, hepatitis A and B, cholera, typhoid, rabies. Malaria medication is only necessary if you plan to visit low-lying areas of Nepal / India after the climb.

Flight Travel Information:
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Nepal

International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in country’s for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the countries destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.

Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.

Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.

Mount Everest Fitness & Training

Climbing Grade: Advanced   

As the highest point in the world, this climb requires significant physical, mental, and technical skills. Previous experience at altitude and expedition style climbing is a must. Be prepared to carry a 30-pound pack at altitude, including a supplemental oxygen tank. Experience with ladder crossings, fixed lines, and steep snow and ice climbing is essential for a safe and enjoyable climb.

Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting Mount Everest.

  • Northwest Climb and/or course (Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Shuksan)
  • Aconcagua
  • Denali, Mount Vinson
  • Cho Oyu, Manaslu

Frequently Asked Questions

What amenities can I expect at Base Camp?

From hot showers to fresh baked chocolate cake, you can expect to stay in the best base camp on Everest. We firmly believe that comfortable, well-nourished, healthy climbers in base camp become strong, successful climbers on the mountain.

Our climbers enjoy a heated dining tent with insulated, carpeted wooden floors and warm padded armchairs, as well as an insulated, heated geodesic dome “hangout tent” with carpeted floors, a movie theatre, work spaces with tables and chairs, and a yoga space. In our communications tent, we provide a solar array and backup generator so you can keep your devices charged. Each climber will have a personal sleeping tent with a plush, 6-inch sleeping pad and a pillow, and a waterproof ground cloth to keep out the damp. Our hot shower tents have two rooms: one for showering, one for changing. Our bathroom tents also have two rooms with a handwashing station in the foyer.

We employ the best-trained and highest-paid Sherpa staff on the mountain and that includes our chefs in Base Camp and Camp 2. For meals, you can expect dishes like lemon crepes, fresh baked croissants and cinnamon rolls, hamburgers, chicken cordon blue and fresh fruit and vegetables. In the morning, wake up with a drink from our cappuccino machine. At dinner, we greet you with hot, eucalyptus-infused towels.

Will I be able to contact friends and family while on the mountain?

We’ll have a reliable cellular signal in Kathmandu and most of the way up the Khumbu Valley. Most cell phone providers work in Nepal. Check with your provider for overseas rates before you leave home. You may also purchase a Nepali Ncell SIM card in Kathmandu before we depart for the mountain.

Wifi is available in most of the teahouses where we stay during our trek up the Khumbu Valley, and in Internet cafes in some of the larger towns. In Base Camp, you may have a strong enough cell signal for calls, but usually not for data. Wifi is available in Base Camp for individual purchase. Please note that it’s provided by a third party and we do not control the quality or price of the service.

Our team will carry a Thuraya satellite phone, but we do not expect to use it until above Base Camp. Team members may use it for $3/minute. The Nepali government requires personal satellite phones to be registered at significant expense.

It’s a long trip, can my friends or family join me on the expedition?

Yes, we’d love for your friends and relatives to join us on the trek to Base Camp and even our acclimatization ascent of Lobuche Peak. Trekkers who accompany our Everest climbers typically stay two nights at Base Camp, but longer stays can be arranged. Please let us know ASAP if you’d like to explore these options so we can make the necessary arrangements.

How much does a Mount Everest climbing permit cost?

Your Mount Everest climbing permit and fixed route fees are included in the Mountain Gurus program fees. All foreign climbers must obtain an $11,000 permit that allows you to climb above Everest Base Camp to the summit of Mount Everest during the spring climbing season. Mountain Gurus will obtain the climbing permit for our expedition once we arrive in Kathmandu. Your program fee also includes payment ($500) for the Icefall Doctors to fix the route through the Khumbu Icefall and elsewhere on the mountain, and a deposit for garbage and waste removal ($500).

How much will my pack weigh?

We strive to keep pack weights low on Everest. Our high-quality oxygen systems that weigh several pounds less than other systems widely uswd on the mountain. That said, you should expect to carry between 15 and 30 pounds throughout the expedition. Your pack will be lighter on the approach trek when porters will carry the bulk of your gear. While climbing, you should expect to carry most or all of your personal gear. Climbing Sherpas will carry all of the group gear and will help carry some of your personal gear if possible.

What if I’ve never used supplemental oxygen before? How much will I get?

Supplemental oxygen keeps you warmer and helps you move faster high on the mountain, improving your safety. We employ top quality, lightweight, reliable oxygen tanks and masks, and we thoroughly train you in how to use them before we leave base camp. We typically begin sleeping with oxygen in Camp 3, and we climb with it from there on to the summit. We’ll give you seven bottles of oxygen – plenty for you to run at a comfortable flow of 3 liters per minute throughout the climb. If you would like, we can arrange an extra three bottles for you, which will allow you to start on Oxygen at Camp 2 and run at a higher flow rate of 4 to 5 liters per minute.

SEVEN SUMMITS

Mount Elbrus Southside

Aconcagua

Mount Kilimanjaro

All Climbs