Mount Shuksan may be one of the most photographed mountains in the Cascade Range. The mountain’s name Shuksan is derived from a native American word, meaning “high peak”. The highest point on the mountain is a three sided peak known as Summit Pyramid.
Fisher Chimneys • 3 Day Ascent
The Fisher Chimney route requires more advanced alpine skills. The approach is longer and involves more steep climbing than the standard Sulphide Glacier route. We approach high camp from the trailhead near Artist Point a short distance from the Mount Baker Ski resort, hike through old growth forest and alpine meadows to Lake Ann. The climb begins with easy rock climbing up a series of chimneys, a short ice pitch known as Winnies Slide, then moderate glacier climbing over three separate glaciers (White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide), and concludes with a 3rd class scramble up the central gully, or southeast ridge 5th class rock climb of the summit pyramid. From the summit, we enjoy views of the north face glaciers beneath us as well as the peaks of the North Cascades. We then descend the climbing route back to high camp and enjoy a relaxing afternoon.
Lake Ann / Fisher Chimney Approach
- Approach Time to Camp: 6 hours
- Distance to Lake Ann: 4 miles, 1500 ft. gain / 800 ft. loss
- Trailhead: Lake Ann, 4700 ft.
- Lake Ann Camp: 4800 ft
- High Camp: 6700 ft.
- Lake Ann to High Camp: 2-3 hours, 1900 ft. gain
- Camp to Summit: 4-6 hours, 2500 ft. gain
- Trail synopsis: Hike south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). The trail may be snow covered in early season. At about 2 miles, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to camp at Lake Ann. Follow a climbers trail towards the lower Curtis Glacier. It switchbacks, crossing two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. Scramble approximately 1,000 ft of class 3-4 rock to high camp near the toe of the White Salmon Glacier at 6700 feet.
- Enjoy a Northwest Alpine Guides adventure and summit a beautiful peak in the heart of North Cascades National Park.
- Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimney’s to summit of Mount Shuksan.
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 1 • Hike to High Camp
Day 2 • Summit Day
Day 3 • Hike to Trailhead
2 to 1 Climber to Guide Ratio
We lead the Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimney route at a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio ensuring that you receive personal attention and hands-on instruction throughout the climb.
Northwest Alpine Guides is an authorized outfitter guide service within North Cascades National Park
Quien Sabe Glacier via Boston Basin Itinerary
Plan to arrive the day before the climb begins.
Day 1 • Hike to High Camp • 5,300 feet
Meet in Sedro Woolley, WA.
Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including personal gear list, meeting location and driving directions.
Our alpine guides will meet you for team introductions, gear check, and group gear distribution. The drive to Boston Basin trailhead at 3,200 feet takes approximately two hours.
The hike to high camp takes 3 to 4 hours. The team will set camp between 5,300 – 6,400 feet depending on the season.
A one hour skills refresh will be taught after arriving at high camp. Each team member will be assessed throughout the mountaineering instruction. You will need to demonstrate adequate fitness and proficiency in climbing skills as your safely is our priority.
We return to camp and prepare for our summit bid. The team enjoys dinner and early to bed for the next day’s climb.
Accommodations: Tented Camp
Day 2 • Summit Day via Quien Sabe Glacier • 8,680 feet
Our summit day starts early with a pre-dawn alpine start. From high camp, the climb ascends the moderate Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston Sahale Col. Our route traverses a rock and snow ridge before reaching the final summit pitch. We scramble third class rock to the summit. After enjoying summit views from Sahale Mountain’s highest point and celebrating our success we rappel our route and descend to high camp.
We have the option of descending the route or traversing the peak via the Sahale Glacier and descending the Sahale Arm to Cascade Pass.
Accommodations: Tented Camp
Day 3 • Hike to Trailhead
After enjoying breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our hike back to the trailhead. We generally arrive back to the trailhead by early-afternoon and conclude our adventure in Sedro Woolley.
Plan to depart the day after the climb ends.
Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
Where to Meet
8:00 am, the morning of the climb, we meet in Sedro Woolley for equipment check before heading to the trailhead. We will email you PreClimb info including gear list and departure details upon registration.
Deposit and Payments
$500.00 deposit includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee, due with application. Balance due 90 days prior to start date.
- Guided climb and instruction
- Boiled water for meals
- Professional mountain guide
- Group equipment (including tents, ropes, stoves, etc.)
- Wilderness Permits
Price Does Not Include
- Trailhead parking fees (NW Forest Pass)
- Meals and snack food
- Personal gear
- Hotels or lodging
- Trip cancellation insurance
- Medical and evacuation coverage
- Staff gratuities